Day: 1
Trajectory:  San Martín de los Andes – Embalse Alicurá – El Maitén – Esquel.
Distance covered:   520 km

This is the first day of a road trip from San Martín de los Andes to the bottom of the South American land mass. The intention is to follow the RN40 as far as possible and then find a way further south, visiting Ushuaia, Punta Arenas and as far south as I can get on the continent.

For the first part of my trip (as far as Ushuaia) I am travelling with my son Christopher, generally and henceforward known as Tiso. He will fly back from Ushuaia and I will continue for another two or three weeks, working my way up the Atlantic coast in search of wild life; birds, marine life and land mammals.

We left San Martin on schedule at 06.00 and drove uneventfully through Junín de los Andes, past La Rinconada and along the Collón Curá valley. The first moment of excitement was an encounter with a family of wild boar who were crossing the highway as they returned from drinking in a water pool. It was the first time of either of us had seen a family of wild boar and this little group –two adults and two or three very small piglets– was a joy to behold, and kept us in good spirits for a good while. Sadly the cameras were in the back of the jeep, so we have no record of the encounter but I include a stock photo to illustrate the event.

Wild boar (jabali) with young – photo courtesy http://www.fadovisa.es

I travel frequently along this road and for me the journey really started when we hit the turning for Alicurá, the beginning of a long stretch of the old RN40 long replaced by a fast, blacktop highway. This was a new road for me, and in a sense the real start of our adventure.

We turn off for Alicurá, the first ‘new’ stretch of road for us, and thus the real start of our adventure.

As we climbed higher and higher and the road got worse and worse we found ourselves surrounded by ice and snow, the result of a very heavy snow fall the previous night.

Climbing up the road towards Pilcaniyeu in the snow and ice

It was cold up here – it was still quite early in the morning and the sun, if dazzling, was still weak. But the views were spectacular, even if the road was a little variable in its surface.

The overnight ice on a road sign melts in the early morning sun

We finally arrived at the first settlement on our trip, the small town of Pilcaniyeu, where we filled up with fuel.

Arriving in Pilcaniyeu

Pilcanieyu is a small place with memories of what were obviously more important days, reflected in its architecture.

Old building in Pilcaniyeu

We left Pilcanieyu for a smaller community, Las Bayas, and then drove on to the larger town of Norquinco, passing a lovely old chapel along the way.

Chapel between Las bayas and Norquinco

We had lunch in Norquinco, huge milanesa sandwiches that were ridiculously cheap.

An unprepossessing restaurant,  …

… but great food and service inside, and very cheap …

Then back on the road to El Maitén, crisscrossing paths with the old railway line that once united Ingeniero Jacobacci with Esquel.

Part of the old line of the Old Patagona Express that once ran from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Esquel.

The only part of this famous railway line made famous by Paul Theroux that is still running is the stretch to Esquel from Maiten, a popular tourist attraction which we saw when we reached the latter town.

Train for Esquel gathering steam …

… and in full steam on its way back to Esquel.

… and in full steam on its way back to Esquel.

We reached Esquel some ten hours after leaving, found our hostal easily enough and enjoyed a welcome siesta. After the remote townships we had passed through Esquel was  a shining metropolis, full of bright lights and attractive businesses. We went out for an equally welcome parrilla and went to bed to prepare for day 2. . Silver the Jeep behaved impeccably, Tiso did all the driving (my turn tomorrow), and Day 1 is done, successfully and enjoyably. Watch this space.