Until 2004 the Ruta 40 finished its southern trajectory at Punta Loyola, near Río Gallegos. In 2004, mostly for political reasons, an additional 100 km was added, making the new starting point [kilometre zero] at Cabo de Virgenes, where the Magellan Straits meet the South Atlantic.
Arrived at the beginning of the RN 40
Mission complete, as Silver and I arrive at Cabo de Virgenes. Pity Tiso wasn’t with us to celebrate but he did most of the journey and I missed him especially on this last leg. But I did have company – I picked up a couple of fellow birders from Río Gallegos whom I knew through Aves Argentinas and they provided excellent company as well as good birding info (see separate blog under ‘Birds and Birding – Trip to Cabo de Virgenes’).
My birding companions for the day, Emanuel and Santiago
In the background you can see the old lighthouse at Cabo de Virgenes – I declined the invitation to climb to the top because of a) the howling wind, b) my age and relative infirmity and c) my sense of vertigo. Oh to be young again.
An armadillo, apparently asleep or sun bathing
A grey fox going about his business
We saw plenty of wild life on the way down, some pictured here. Plenty of birds too, but not for this blog – except perhaps to mention the Cauquen Colorado, a dying species in Argentina but fortunately with a breeding population in the nearby Falklands/Malvinas islands.
A curious hare, ears for once pinned back
A rare sight in Argentina – the Cauquen Colorado, or ruddy-headed goose.
Cabo de Virgenes is a long and rough ride, 0ver a hundred km of bad potholes (and I mean ‘bad’), and the Navy personnel who look after the base there don’t get too many visitors so they were delighted to invite us to lunch – lashings of milanesas and rice. We had a long and enlightening chat, mostly about the Malvinas/Falklands situation. All very civilised, and a long way from the fireworks and histrionics of 1982. Good vibes.
Mateando with the permanent Armada Argentina team
We also travelled a little further south to the Chilean border at Punta Dúngeness, named after the English headland.
The lighthouse at Punta Dúngeness, where Chile has its only access to the Atlantic
Layer cake: the change in colour of the water marks where the Magellan Straits meet the South Atlantic Ocean
And so it is. Silver and I made it, with Tiso covering all except the last little bit – which is a 2004 add-on anyway. Next year, La Quiaca, and my final photo is in a sense the start of that journey.
And this is where next year’s trip has already started – will Silver make it to La Quiaca in November 2015? Watch this space.