Day 28: 14 September 2017 – in and around Filadelfia

Caroline relaxing and apparently checking email???

Up early (05.30) for breakfast and on the road slowly towards Filadelfia. Stopped a couple of times along the road, by lakes, etc., and did some birding – very hot. Lunch at a small farm, Chaco Lodge, Laguna Salida an estancia of some 10 hectares of which 9 are given over to a nature reserve. There is a system in place to connect reserves to extablish an eco-corridor.

These are Ñandu – the greater rhea, not to be confused with the lesser rhea (choique)

On arrival we were greeted by an Indian and two exuberant puppies who seem to look after the place. He apparently lives in the shell of the old farmhouse, cooking on an outdoor fire. Must be a very isolated existence. There was no water at the farm, but fortunately we were well stocked.

This peccary skull shows how hot and dry everything was

We went around another dry salt lake and some trails while Ulf got together an excellent lunch – give the guy his due, he performs real wonders on a single ring with pretty basic equipment.

Impenetrable is the word …

Walked over to Laguna Flamenco, a vast flat area of shallow water and sand. Saw a group of flamencos and tracks of fox and tapir. The Chaco is an area of dry forest which is impenetrable owing to the density of the undergrowth and the propensity of the plants to have many and large thorns. Thorns are common, as they are an adaptation to drought conditions losing less water than leaves.

Coypu by the side of the road

Back on the road after lunch – in this part the roads form a grid system so it’s like driving a route across graph paper – long straight and ever so bumpy. stopping ed a few times –saw a couple of coypus by the roadside– and then had a puncture so went into Filadelfia to get it fixed. Took advantage to go to Supermercado to buy beer and tea.

Getting the important supplies

Then on to another Mennonite Estancia Ganadera (Iparoma), where we were scheduled to spend the night – very comfortable, young Mennonite couple traditionally dressed – and on arrival had a couple of beers and a siesta.

Compare a hen’s egg (r) with an egg from the greater rhea

The Mennonites cooked for us this time; a tasty evening meal combination of roast chicken, rice, pickled dill, beetroot and a rich sauce.

A smart Mennonite dining room for supper – a contrast to lunch

A treat for us after dinner was a night walk around the estancia where we saw night monkeys (Aotus azarae) and the chaco owl (Strix chacoensis).

Oscar took this photo of the Chaco owl