Date: Tuesday, 04 October 2022
Trajectory: San Ignacio to Posadas
Distance covered: 60 km
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Left cabin in San Ignacio for the first of three Jesuit ‘missions’ in the area – there were many more, but these three were handy: San Ignacio, Loreto and Santa Ana.
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San Ignacio is the best preserved/reconstructed, with much ‘replacement’ stonework robbed out of the other two sites.
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The entrance to the main ‘temple’ is perhaps the most known Mission archaeology in Argentina, being reproduced frequently, but the whole site is rather splendid.
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There were dozens of grey-breasted martins nesting in and flying around the inner walls of the temple, making the species an ideal choice for bird of the day.
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I only visited these three missions, but there are/were many more:
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Loreto was interesting to me, as I had visited Loreto in Corrientes, whence the population of the Loreto in Misiones had fled to get away from slave-traders.
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The ruins here were only partly uncovered, making the overgrown site a more natural place.
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Similarly with Santa Ana, although there was a little more original stonework there.
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The plan shows the original layout. All the missions (also known as ‘reductions’) had the same features – main temple, chapel, workers’ quarters, Jesuit quarters, orchard and vegetable garden, cemetery, etc. – but the layouts varied considerable.
I then spent a couple of hours chasing an endemic bird (yellow-headed blackbird) but he wasn’t where he was supposed to be, so I dipped again. You can’t win them all.
Spent the night in a quite cabin just outside Posadas. It was a long way from anywhere, so I cooked myself some onion soup for supper.
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Tomorrow the journey south continues, with intentions to spend the night somewhere near Bonpland, Corriente. The hard driving commences too, but hey, I have to get home.