About Martin Eayrs

San Martín de los Andes, Neuquén, Argentina This blog is an occasional dumping/sharing ground for random thoughts and ideas, mainly relating to birding, photography, travel, the English language and the teaching thereof and assorted verse and doggerel. I am a retired teacher/lecturer and now work as a language and education consultant with an interest in evaluation and testing, quality assessment and moderation. I divide my time between homes and families in San Martín de los Andes, Patagonia and Manchester, UK.

RN40 south, day 3

Posted on November 7, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

Day: 3
Trajectory: Esquel – Gobernador Costa – Alto Río Senguerr – Río Mayo – Perito Moreno

Distance covered: 549 km

On the road again, with a few more stone chips in the windscreen

Apologies for the delay with this blog; it has been tougher finding Internet connections in Patagonia than we had thought, plus we have had one or two mishaps – to be blogged in good time, but we and Silver (the Jeep) are all fine. But a warning to people thinking (like me) of blogging their way – we have had only occasional G3 access to mobile phones, and more often the Edge or (worse) GPRS. Such wifi as we have found has simply not worked well enough to get on to the Internet. This is being sent from Punta Arenas on day 8 of our trip – who knows when the next episode will come up?

Leaving the newest Ruta 40 for what is said to be the ‘old’ one …

…. only to discover an even older version alongside the new old road …

It has slowly become clear that it is not possible to follow the ‘original’ Ruta 40 faithfully. Firstly, because it is not always clear which the original route is; secondly, because the current ‘old’ route often lies alongside a ‘newer’ old route; thirdly because many parts of the route have been renamed and fourthly because some parts have simply disappeared. So we’ll follow the RN40 in spirit, if not always in fact.

This bridge on an older RN40 is clearly not going to allow us across it

Today we travelled along a variety of roads and landscapes:

The open road calls yet again …

… and again

We were lucky to see some of the Patagonian wild life as we drove:

A grey fox ….

… large flocks of Chilean Flamingos on the lagoons beside the road …

… plenty of Darwin’s Rhea (Sp. choique) …

… and numerous herds of guanaco. These two had come down to the highway and seemed unbothered by the Jeep

We stopped a couple of times to fill stomachs and the jeep: one of these steps was Alto Río Sanguerr …

Filling the tank in Alto Río Senguerr

where we saw some lovely old buildings that reminded us of what these southern towns would have been like a hundred or so years ago.

Old building in Alto Río Senguerr

The roads were not completely empty: we saw the occasional sheep farmers herding sheep in the distance and the odd gaucho riding from here to there, but they were very quiet and other road traffic was practically non-existant.

Gaucho wending his way along the side of the highway ….

We arrived in the town Perito Moreno in the evening and found a comfortable cabin in the Municipal camping site. Cheap and basic, but fine for the night. A short walk to a nearby restaurant and our day was done. Before turning in we relaxed watching the waterfowl on an attractive lake by the camping site, laid out for the town’s residents.

Ducks on the Perito Moreno lagoon – surrounded by a 1.5 kilometre illuminated walkway

RN40 south, day 2

Posted on October 31, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

Day: 2
Trajectory: Esquel – Trevelin – Los Alerces National Park – Cholila – Leleque – Esquel.
Distance covered: 317 km

La Hostería El Arrayan in Esquel, where we stayed for nights one and two.

We were up earlyish for coffee and toast and jam. Today was to be a quieter day, spent on a side trip around Esquel. More of a circular trip really, as we drove in a large loop ending where we started up.

Entering Trevelîn, a growing town that still sports its Welsh heritage

Our first port of call was the nearby town of Trevelín, the town of the mill, founded by Welsh settlers in 1889. Here we had morning coffee with Clare Vaughan, coordinator of a British Council run Welsh teaching project across the Welsh belt of Central Patagonia before moving on. Clare’s work interests me very much, and having made contact we have arranged to meet again on my return journey.

Brick built Bar El Único, where we met Clare, was the first school building in Trevelín

Tis and jeep, outside Bar El Único, where we met Clare. This was the first school in Trevelín

We left Trevelín to drive through the immense Los Alerces National Park with its beautiful trees and views, and skirted a number of lakes. We passed through all weathers in the three hours or so it too us to drive through the Park with bright sun, rain and heavy snow.

Entrance to the Los Alerces National Park

The park was brimming with wildlife –we saw and heard an extensive variety of birds– and had a number of trails leading to waterfalls, panoramic viewpoints, etc. The roads were mostly well surfaced, with a little work still to do in parts, but a far cry from the last time I drove this road in the early 1980s.

Waterfall in the Los Alerces National Park ….

… and a viw over a ‘brazo’ of one of the lakes we passed

Not all the animals we saw were wild; the park was also full of sheep, horses and cattle, the last of which fascinated Tiso who shot half of his photographic allowance on some cows in his bid for the ‘animal of the day’.

Tiso took a particular interest in the cows – these were friendly and unproblematic …

… while others were not quite as welcome, though we were in no hurry

We came out of the National Park in time for a late lunch at Cholila, founded in 1840 but which has never really taken off and we wondered what work there would be to keep the small population there. We enjoyed a good, filling and reasonably economic lunch at Lily’s Kitchen.

Lily’s Kitchen – our choice of places to eat in Cholila (not that we actually had much of a choice!)

Bellies full once more, we set off for Butch Cassidy’s ranch some eight kilometres outside Cholila, passing on the way a small but atmospheric cemetery – a well-cared for reminder of the first settlers in the area.

First cemetery of early settlers in the outskirts of Cholila

Much has been written about Butch Cassidy, and since the 1969 movie and Chatwin’s book In Patagonia interest in him and his ‘gang’ has grown, making his ranch outside Cholila a shrine for western fans. Sadly, much that has been written about him is distorted or just plain wrong, but in this case he really did live at this ranch with the Sundance Kid and the enigmatic Etta Place.

Butch Cassidy’s cabin homestead some 8 km outside Cholila …

The cabin and two outhouses have recently been restored, and the cabin is accessible, containing three rooms and a surprising number of doors. No inside fireplace (and it was bitterly cold on the day of our visit). We were able to enter, and Tiso took my picture sitting inside: a great memento!

Sitting in one of the three rooms inside the Butch Cassidy Cabaña

Sitting in one of the three rooms inside the [restored] Butch Cassidy Cabaña

We know a little about Butch Cassidy’s life while he was at Cholila, but much is unclear. What happened to him when he left will probably never be known. He may be buried at Río Pico, but that grave almost certainly remembers another American outlaw. He may have been shot in Bolivia, but there are no records and he was never identified there. And he may have made his way back to New York, as members of his family maintain. We shall probably never know, but we do know he was at Cholila.

Butch Cassidy, Etta Place and the Sundance Kid (right to left) in front of their ranch cabin in Cholila, Argentina, sometime between 1901-1905.

The cabaña today, renovated but in the same place

We left the homestead happy with having made the trip to visit it, and happy too that we had the place all to ourselves to drink up some of the atmosphere. In the height of the tourist season –and there are signs that the site is being developed for that purpose– it would have lost much of its atmosphere.

After a long day’s drive we return to Esquel

We set off for Leleque and the RN4O back to Esquel; the same last bit of the route as yesterday and the same destination. Tomorrow we set off south, to Perito Moreno. But more anon.

RN40 south, day 1

Posted on October 30, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

Day: 1
Trajectory: San Martín de los Andes – Embalse Alicurá – El Maitén – Esquel.
Distance covered: 520 km

This is the first day of a road trip from San Martín de los Andes to the bottom of the South American land mass. The intention is to follow the RN40 as far as possible and then find a way further south, visiting Ushuaia, Punta Arenas and as far south as I can get on the continent.

For the first part of my trip (as far as Ushuaia) I am travelling with my son Christopher, generally and henceforward known as Tiso. He will fly back from Ushuaia and I will continue for another two or three weeks, working my way up the Atlantic coast in search of wild life; birds, marine life and land mammals.

We left San Martin on schedule at 06.00 and drove uneventfully through Junín de los Andes, past La Rinconada and along the Collón Curá valley. The first moment of excitement was an encounter with a family of wild boar who were crossing the highway as they returned from drinking in a water pool. It was the first time of either of us had seen a family of wild boar and this little group –two adults and two or three very small piglets– was a joy to behold, and kept us in good spirits for a good while. Sadly the cameras were in the back of the jeep, so we have no record of the encounter but I include a stock photo to illustrate the event.

Wild boar (jabali) with young – photo courtesy http://www.fadovisa.es

I travel frequently along this road and for me the journey really started when we hit the turning for Alicurá, the beginning of a long stretch of the old RN40 long replaced by a fast, blacktop highway. This was a new road for me, and in a sense the real start of our adventure.

We turn off for Alicurá, the first ‘new’ stretch of road for us, and thus the real start of our adventure.

As we climbed higher and higher and the road got worse and worse we found ourselves surrounded by ice and snow, the result of a very heavy snow fall the previous night.

Climbing up the road towards Pilcaniyeu in the snow and ice

It was cold up here – it was still quite early in the morning and the sun, if dazzling, was still weak. But the views were spectacular, even if the road was a little variable in its surface.

The overnight ice on a road sign melts in the early morning sun

We finally arrived at the first settlement on our trip, the small town of Pilcaniyeu, where we filled up with fuel.

Arriving in Pilcaniyeu

Pilcanieyu is a small place with memories of what were obviously more important days, reflected in its architecture.

Old building in Pilcaniyeu

We left Pilcanieyu for a smaller community, Las Bayas, and then drove on to the larger town of Norquinco, passing a lovely old chapel along the way.

Chapel between Las bayas and Norquinco

We had lunch in Norquinco, huge milanesa sandwiches that were ridiculously cheap.

An unprepossessing restaurant, …

… but great food and service inside, and very cheap …

Then back on the road to El Maitén, crisscrossing paths with the old railway line that once united Ingeniero Jacobacci with Esquel.

Part of the old line of the Old Patagona Express that once ran from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Esquel.

The only part of this famous railway line made famous by Paul Theroux that is still running is the stretch to Esquel from Maiten, a popular tourist attraction which we saw when we reached the latter town.

Train for Esquel gathering steam …

… and in full steam on its way back to Esquel.

We reached Esquel some ten hours after leaving, found our hostal easily enough and enjoyed a welcome siesta. After the remote townships we had passed through Esquel was a shining metropolis, full of bright lights and attractive businesses. We went out for an equally welcome parrilla and went to bed to prepare for day 2. . Silver the Jeep behaved impeccably, Tiso did all the driving (my turn tomorrow), and Day 1 is done, successfully and enjoyably. Watch this space.

On the road again …

Posted on October 28, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

It’s a long time since I set off on a proper trip, one wholly unrelated to work and with no aim other than the travelling itself. And it’s a great feeling to be travelling with my son, away from his work and family commitments for a couple of weeks. It’s going to be good, and I’m really looking forward to it.

The last proper walk I did (with Tiso and friends), when we walked from the hot springs at Epulafquen to the camping site at Piedra Mala (Paimún).

I’m travelling down Argentina’s legendary Ruta Nacional 40 and coming back up the Atlantic coast. With side trips (and getting lost once in a while) my whole trip will be about 6000 km in total. That is longer than the entire RN40 (5.140 km) – once I get to the southernmost point of South America I have of course to turn round and come back. To provide a little perspective, the distance between Madrid and Moscow is only 3417 km; New York to Los Angeles 4139 km and Buenos Aires to Bogotá 4649 km. I’ve been saving up for the fuel!

Comparative distances – image taken from Austin Whittall’s great site at http://turismoruta40.com.ar

The road surfaces will range from freshly surfaced blacktop to long abandoned dirt and gravel roads, but I am confident that our Jeep, hereby christened ‘Silver’ in honour of the Lone Ranger’s horse, will cope. I hope, anyway. Recently serviced, with spanking (and hideously expensive) new tyres and the roof laden with spare tyres and jerry cans of petrol (petrol stations can be 800kms apart and then be out of petrol!) we’ve done what we can – a fifteen year old vehicle can be problematic, but we are gung ho. Sort of.

Easter 1974, Nordkapp, and a rather younger and slightly inebriated Martin

Way back in 1974 I travelled to Skarsvåg, a township (village, really) in Nordkapp, Norway. The northernmost settlement in continental Europe. Forty years later I am aiming to get to Ushuaia, the southermost city in Latin America and then (just to be sure as Ushuaia could be said to be on an island) driving on to Punta Arenas and then south to Port Famine and then even further south, as far as possible, into the Magellan Strait. (Yes, I know that Puerto Williams on the Island of Navarino is even further south but I can see no way of getting there that would not involve a long sea journey. And there are settlements even further south –on Antarctica– but we have to draw the line somewhere).

We leave Thursday morning, 30 October, early. I’ll be blogging the journey, day by day, although it is unlikely that I’ll be able to upload every day given the remoteness of where we are going. If you live in urban Europe or North America it is hard to comprehend the vastness of Patagonia. As Chatwin and Theroux have pointed out, time spent there reminds one that ‘nowhere is a place’.

Next blog at end of day one (we hope).

Saturday morning at Laguna Rosales

Posted on October 27, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

Click on any image for a slide show or scroll down to read the (illustrated) narrative.

Ashy-headed geese flying over Laguna Rosales

In today’s blog I have combined and edited comments and observations from Scarlett Eastman with my own, and as always I am grateful to Scarlett for these, for her guiding skills (and for keeping the list as we go). Most of the comments below regarding comparative observations at Rosales is the work of Scarlett, and I thank her for it.

Scarlett the botanist, photographing a yellow-flowering bush

Dateline: Saturday 25 October. The weather was clear with some non-threatening white clouds and a brisk wind as we left Scarlett’s home in La Vega at about 07.00, and stayed so all day although it did become quite hot around midday. We headed first for the Laguna Rosales, on the road to Lolog; spent some hours in the woodland there; completed a circuit of the lagoon; and finally came back via Calle Gingens, where we stopped by several chacras and walked the mallin a while.

A Long-tailed Meadow-lark high up in a tree fanfares us into Laguna Rosales

We had in fact visited Laguna Rosales almost exactly a year ago, and on this visit we kept fairly close to the same itinerary. We were struck on our earlier visit by how few waterfowl we observed on the lake and shoreland, and it was very gratifying to see the great ‘come-back’ since our last survey. Past surveys (in 1999, 2000 and 2001) had recorded large numbers of birds but last year was very disappointing.

Anyway, this year was much better than October 2013. We saw Brown-Hooded Gull nesting again in the reeds on the western tip of the lagoon, something not seen for the last ten years. Andean Ruddy Duck and Lake Duck were not yet up the millennial count of sixty-five to eighty individuals nesting but we were able to count some eighteen Lake Duck. These may have been nesting but we shall have to wait for a future visit to check for nests in the reeds.

Lake Duck aka Argentina Ruddy Duck on Laguna Rosales

We didn’t see any species of Grebes (Macá). Again, at the millennium a couple of pairs of Great Grebe (Macá Grande aka Huala, Podiceps major) and several pairs of White-tufted Grebe (Macá Común, Rollandia Rolland) were regularly observed. Scarlett had seen a pair of White-tufted Grebe last year on the eastern tip of the lagoon and as recently as last winter had seen a single bird; on this visit we saw none. Pied-billed Grebe (Macá Pico Grueso, Podylimbus podiceps) would also be regularly seen in the past but we saw none last year or this.

We did see Coots last year, both the White-winged coot (Gallareta Chica, Fulica leucoptera) as well as the Red-Gartered Coot (Gallareta Ligas Rojas, Fulica armillata) and this year the numbers seem to have slightly increased: we noted some half dozen Fulica leucoptera, but did not make a detailed survey. And we didn’t see any Black Cormorant (Biguá, Phalacrocorax brasilianus) at all.

Red-gartered coot, out of the water for once

Highlights of the day

We started the day with a Saffron Finch (Jilguero Dorado, Sicalis flaveola) which was on the feeder on Scarlett’s window; not the most common of birds but Scarlett always seems to have them around.

The highlight at the Laguna Rosales was probably the male Rufous-tailed Plantcutter (Rara, Phytotoma rara). We heard plenty of these but only saw the one.

Rufous-tailed plantcutter, sadly suffering from camera shake

We also heard lots of Black-throated Huet-Huet (Huet-Huet, Pterotochos tarnii) and Chucao Tapaculo (Chucao, Scelorchilus rubecula) but only caught a glimpse of the former scurrying through the undergrowth, his size and upturned tail helping to identify him. Sadly no photographs of these last two, but they are hard to see and even harder to photograph.

A pair of Ashy-headed Geese …

… and a pair of Upland aka Magellan Geese

As stated above, the number of waterfowl on the lagoon was considerably up on last year. We saw large numbers of geese and ducks, and a fair few coots too.

Red-gartered coot, out of the water for once

Of course we saw many of the more common birds too: in particular the Black-faced Ibis (Bandurria,Theristicus melanopis) were out in force.

It’s hard to get away from the Black-headed Ibis

Laguna Rosales is a beautiful spot, and not just for birding. We saw countless rabbits, a few hares and were fortunate enough to see a coypo, swimming close to the bank. This is an indigenous animal, and the sighting was a first for me. I only had time for a rapid shot, somewhat obscured by the foliage, but it will serve as a register.

A coypu, swimming in the lagoon.

There were also many horses grazing on the marshland around the lake. Being a border town (with Chile) San Martín maintains a garrison and –given the mountainous terrain– horses are still a vital part of training and military operations, although it must be admitted they are also used to play polo on their own polo field at Laguna Rosales. The military seem to have a lot of horses; they also keep large numbers at the barracks on the Lolog road, near my house in Alihuén.

Army horses grazing in the marshland

On the way home we drove along calles Gingens and Bello, stopping off at a couple of smallholdings to walk the premises. One of the farmers was an old friend of Scarlett’s, Pablo McKinley, who sat us down to cold beer, particularly welcome as the day had hotted up considerably. We spent a pleasant moment there, while he and Scarlett bemoaned the changing face of San Martín since they both came here many years ago. It is true the town is changing character and is not what it was, and for some the urge is strengthening to move further south.

Black vulture, with the atmosphere they always bring ..

Pablo had told us of a Great Egret on his land (which we were unable to find) but were lucky enough to get good views of a small group of land-based Black Vultures (Jote Cabeza Negra, Coragyps atratus), several colourful Austral Parakeets (Cachaña, Enicognathus ferrugineus) feeding in a Maitén tree and a very confident Hellmayr’s Pipit (Cachirla Pálida, Anthus hellmayri) who seemed happy enough to pose for us at close quarters all afternoon.

Hellmayr’s Pipit, happily posing for a photo

Teros were in full occupation of this land and dive-bombed us in the false belief that we were a threat to their territory. Wrens too were plentiful, and a pleasure to behold.

One of the Tero population divebombing us

… and a wren flying off rather more delicately

The pretty little Black-chinned Siskin (Cabecitanegra Austral, Carduelis barbata) was very much in evidence during the day and is a fitting image to close on.

Black-chinned siskin, with the Jeep in the background

Here is a complete list for the day, in alphabetical order. We recorded 33 species.

Bandurria (Theristicus melanopis) Black-faced Ibis
Cabecitanegra Austral (Carduelis barbata) Black-chinned Siskin
Cachaña (Enicognathus ferrugineus) Austral Parakeet ±8
Carpintero Pitío (Colaptes pitius) Chilean Flicker
Cauquén Común (Chloephaga picta) Upland Goose male and female ±10
Cauquén Real (Chloephaga poliocephala) Ashy-headed Goose ±20
Chimango (Milvago chimango) Chimango Caracara
Chingolo (Zonotrichia capensis) Rufous-collared Sparrow
Chucao (Scelorchilus rubecula) Chucao Tapaculo (heard only)
Codorniz de California – (Callipepla califórnica) California Quail
Comesebo patagónico (Phygilus patagonicus) Patagonian Sierra Finch
Diuca (Diuca diuca) Dicuca Finch
Diucón (Xolmis pyrope) Fire-eyed Diucon
Fio Fiofío Silbón (Elaenia Elaenia albiceps) White-crested Elaenia
Gallareta Chica (Fulica leucoptera) White-winged coot 6
Gallareta Ligas Rojas (Fulica armillata) Red-gartered Coot ±8
Gaviota Capucho (Larus maculipennis) Brown-hooded Gull ±50
Golondrina Patagónica (Tachycineta leucopyga) Chilean Swallow
Gorrión (Passer domesticus) House Sparrow
Huet-Huet (Pterotochos tarnii) Black-throated Huet-Huet
Jilguero Dorado (Sicalis flaveola) Saffron Finch
Loica (Sturnella loyca) Long-tailed Meadowlark
Pato Barcino (Anas flavirostris) Speckled Teal ±10
Pato Maicero (Anas geórgica) Yellow-billed Pintail 4
Pato Overo (Anas sibilatrix) Southern Wigeon ±8
Pato Zambullidor Chico (Oxyura vittata) Lake Duck ±18
Rara (Phytotoma rara) Rufous-tailed Plantcutter (male)
Ratona (Troglodytes aedon) House Wren
Ratona Aperdizada (Cistothorus platensis) Grass Wren
Tero (Vanellus chilensis) Southern lapwing
Tordo Patagónico (Curaeus curaeus) Austral Blackbird
Tordo Renegrido (Molothrus bonariensis) Shiny Cowbird
Zorzal (Turdus falcklandii) Austral Thrush

12 hour birding challenge

Posted on October 23, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

On Sunday 19 October 2014 my good friend Scarlett Eastman and I set off on the DESAFÍO 12 HORAS EN BUSCA DEL AVE ESCONDIDA, a 12 hour birding challenge in search of ‘hidden’ species. The rules were a bit complicated, but there were bonus points for rarer (read ‘endangered’ or ‘vulnerable’) species and penalties for having the misfortune to spot ‘exotic’ species (read ‘foreign imports, like the Sparrow or Californian Quail).

With Scarlett, in planning mode

This was not a serious competition, rather a way of ending up the three day long Fiesta de la Bandurria, a local birding event in San Martín de los Andes. Even if Scarlett and I were a little hazy about the rules we were determined to enjoy ourselves and in the end we did spot one or two rarer species, including three or four first time sightings for me so I was thrilled at that.

Apart from seeing male or female of species where I had previously only seen the other sex my new life list sightings were:

– Playerito Unicolor (Calidris bairdii) Baird’s Sandpiper
– Espartillero Austral (Asthenes anthoides) Austral Canastero
– Canastero Coludo (Asthenes pyrrholeuca) Lesser Canastero
– Colilargo (Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii) Des Murs’s Wiretail
– Misto (Sicalis luteola) Grassland Yellow-Finch

I wasn’t carrying a camera (we were moving fast) so this blog will have no bird pictures.

We left San Martín de los Andes at about seven am and forged a route, starting with nearby Laguna Rosales; Calle GinGens/Torres (skirting wetlands); the Quilquilhue bridge on the San Martín-Junín road, the riverside in Junín; lagunas just outside Junín on the way to La Rinconada; the land by the bridge at La Rinconada; two ‘bajadas’ to the river Collón Curá; a short way up the ‘intransitable‘ Ruta 50 to Sañico; and of course countless stops to investigate some flying or hopping bird. I should have liked to try to get a bit further up the road to Sañico but Scarlett was not very enthusiastic, and probably with good reason.

Chero on the old Ruta 50 up to Sañico, marked as ‘transitable’ – I wonder?

We submitted 73 species – the full list below is for the record (and for those valiant enough to struggle through). The taxonomy used is that used by our local birding association and other names are also in use – we had to submit in this format. I have eliminated the number of birds and places sighted as this is of local interest only.

PELICANIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae

Biguá

Phalacrocorax brasilianus

Neotropic Cormorant

CICONIFORMES: Ardeidae

Garza Blanca

Ardea alba

Great Egret

CICONIFORMES: Threskiornithidae

Bandurria Austral

Theristicus melanopis

Black-faced Ibis

CICONIFORMES: Threskiornithidae

Jote Cabeza Negra

Coragyps atratus

Black Vulture

Jote Cabeza Colorada

Cathartes aura

Turkey Vulture

Cóndor Andino

Vultur gryphus

Andean Condor

ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae

Cisne Coscoroba

Coscoroba coscoroba

Coscoroba Swan

Cauquén Común

Chloephaga picta

Upland or Magellan Goose

Cauquén Real

Chloephaga poliocephala

Ashy-headed Goose

Pato Overo

Anas sibilatrix

Southern or Chiloe Wigeon

Pato Maicero

Anas georgica

Yellow-billed Pintail

Pato Barcino

Anas flavirostris

Speckled Teal

Pato Zambullidor Grande

Oxyura ferruginea

Andean Ruddy Duck

Pato Zambullidor Chico

Oxyura vittata

Argentine Ruddy Duck

FALCONIFORMES: Accipitridae

Gavilán Mixto

Parabuteo unicinctus unicinctus

Harris’s Hawk (Bay-winged)

Agilucho Común

Buteo polyosoma

Variable Hawk (Red-backed)

Águila Mora

Geranoaetus melanoleucus

Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle

FALCONIFORMES: Falconidae

Carancho

Caracara plancus

Southern Caracara

Chimango

Milvago chimango

Chimango Caracara

Halconcito Colorado

Falco sparverius

American Kestrel

Halcón Plomizo

Falco femoralis

Aplomado Falcon

GALLIFORMES: Phasianidae

Codorníz de California

Callipepla californica

California Quail

GRUIFORMES: Rallidae

Gallineta Chica

Fulica leucoptera

White-winged Coot

Gallaretta de Ligas Rojas

Fulica armillata

Red-gartered Coot

CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae

Tero

Vanellus chilensis

Southern Lapwing

CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae

Playerito Unicolor

Calidris bairdii

Baird’s Sandpiper

CHARADRIIFORMES: Laridae

Gaviota Capucho Café

Larus maculipennis

Brown-hooded Gull

Gaviota Cocinera

Larus dominicanus

Kelp Gull

COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae

Paloma Casera

Columba livia

Rock Pigeon

Paloma Picazuró

Columba picazuro

Picazuro Pigeon

Torcacita

Columbina picui

Picui Ground-Dove

Torcaza Común

Zenaida auriculata

Eared Dove

STRIGIFORMES: Tytonidae

Caburé Grande

Glaucidium nanum

Austral Pygmy-Owl

CORACIIFORMES: Alcedinidae

Martín Pescador Grande

Megaceryle torquata

Ringed Kingfisher

PICIFORMES: Picidae

Carpintero Pitío

Colaptes pitius

Chilean Flicker

PASSERIFORMES: Furnariidae

Remolinera Araucana

Cinclodes patagonicus

Dark-bellied Cinclodes

Remolinera Común

Cinclodes fuscus

Bar-winged Cinclodes

Coludito Cola Negra

Leptasthenura aegithaloides

Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail

Espartillero Austral

Asthenes anthoides

Austral Canastero

Canastero Coludo

Asthenes pyrrholeuca

Lesser Canastero

Junquero

Phleocryptes melanops

Wren-like Rushbird

Colilarga

Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii

Des Murs’s Wiretail

Rayadito Común

Aphrastura spinicauda

Thorn-tailed Rayadito

PASSERIFORMES: Rhinocryptidae

Huet-huet

Pteroptochos tarnii

Black-throated Huet-huet

Chucao

Scelorchilus rubecula

Chucao Tapaculo

PASSERIFORMES: Tyrannidae

Fiofío Silbón

Elaenia albiceps

White-crested Elaenia

Sobrepuesto

Lessonia rufa

Rufous-backed Negrito

Tachurí Sietecolores

Tachuris rubrigastra

Many-colored Rush Tyrant

Peutrén

Colorhamphus parvirostris

Patagonian Tyrant

Cachudito Pico Negro

Anairetes parulus

Tufted Tit-Tyrant

Pico de plata

Hymenops perspicillatus

Spectacled Tyrant

Diucón

Xolmis pyrope

Fire-eyed Diucon

Doradito Común

Pseudocolopteryx flaviventris

Warbling Doradito

PASSERIFORMES: Cotingidae

Rara

Phytotoma rara

Rufous-tailed Plantcutter

PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae

Golondrina Barranquera

Pygochelidon cyanoleuca

Blue-and-white Swallow

Golondrina Patagónica

Tachycineta leucopyga

Chilean Swallow

PASSERIFORMES: Troglodytidae

Ratona Común

Troglodytes aedon

House Wren

Ratona Aperdizada

Cistothorus platensis

Grass Wren

PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae

Zorzal Patagónico

Turdus falcklandii

Austral Thrush

PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae

Cachirla Común

Anthus correndera

Correndera Pipit

Cachirla Pálida

Anthus hellmayri

Hellmayr’s Pipit

PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae

Comesebo Andino

Phrygilus gayi

Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch

Comesebo Patagónico

Phrygilus patagonicus

Patagonian Sierra-Finch

Misto

Sicalis luteola

Grassland Yellow-Finch

Diuca Común

Diuca diuca

Common Diuca-Finch

Yal Negro

Phrygilus fruticeti

Mourning Sierra-Finch

Chingolo Común

Zonotrichia capensis

Rufous-collared Sparrow

PASSERIFORMES: Icteridae

Tordo Patagónico

Curaeus curaeus

Austral Blackbird

Tordo Renegrido

Molothrus bonariensis

Shiny Cowbird

Varillero Ala Amarilla

Agelaius thilius

Yellow-winged Blackbird

Loica Común

Sturnella loyca

Long-tailed Meadowlark

PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae

Gorrión Común

Passer domesticus

House Sparrow

Cabecita Negra Austral

Carduelis barbata

Black-chinned Siskin

The Ruta 40 calls …

Posted on October 23, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

Every trip should have a goal, and this is ours – though not the end of our journey.

We are now starting to tick off the last minute preparations before we set off south on our trip down the old Ruta 40. I say old, because we intend as much as possible to follow the 1930s route rather than the modern one. When the national government decided to oblige provincial authorities to tarmac all of the R40 many of them simply renamed other routes as R40 and changed the old names. It’s been quite tough working out the old route but thanks to a great website I found I have managed to more or less piece it together.

With much of the journey on dirt and gravel roads new tyres were essential (if expensive)

The biggest (and most expensive) issue has been getting the Jeep ready. It is now fifteen years old and has to do a six-thousand km journey reliably, given that we shall be travelling through some very remote places, possibly with extreme weather conditions. This means carrying multiple spare tyres, jerry cans of fuel and water (for car and drinking), spare parts, tools and emergency rations. So far we have bought a roof rack, new tyres (ouch), and jerry cans and have given the Jeep a full service. The service led to a new alternator and a few other little things were sorted. I’d hardly say the Jeep is looking new, but it’s certainly costing a lot to get it ready.

Roof racks were expensive, so we had this one made to size

I’ve also been working on the itinerary, deciding where to stop each night, where to stay, what to see and what to do. Tiso wants to visit Cerro Paine and the national parks around El Chaltén and El Calafate (I’m keen too), and I have my eyes on some nature reserves.

Cueva de las Manos (Cave of Hands) near the town of Perito Moreno in the province of Santa Cruz. Photo from www.patagonia.com.ar/.

There will be historic and prehistoric things to see: we shall be visiting ancient rock paintings (e.g. the world heritage “painted hands” site) as well as more modern things such as traces of Butch Cassidy in Chubut.

Cabin said to have been sometime home to Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kids and Etta Place. Photo from http://www.plazademayo.com/.

There’ll be references from Darwin, Bruce Chatwin, etc. to follow up; the Welsh community to learn more about; all the new fauna and fauna to admire; all in all, it promises to be a great trip.

The end (or beginning) of the Ruta 40 in cabo Virgenes. Not the end of the trip though – we go further south. Photo http://www.turismoruta40.com.ar

The Ruta 40 stops in Cabo Virgenes. Actually it stops in Río Gallegos, the extension being a modern addition, but as it’s further south we’ll add it in. And if possible get down to Dungeness, at the entrance to the Strait of Magellan and the only place where Chile has [minimal] contact with the Atlantic Ocean. Then we go on to Ushuaia, where Tiso flies back and I begin another journey home alone, first south into Chile (Punta Arenas and down to Puerto Hambre) and then up north along the Atlantic coast as far as Peninsula Valdés. But that’ll be another blog series.

Day of the big birds

Posted on October 15, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

Click on any image for slide show, or scroll down for illustrated narrative.

We left San Martín at 07.30 on a promising day, with clear blue sky, no wind and no hint of rain. Our aim was to find a place on the road between Junín and Aluminé called Newen Hue, which Scarlett had visited some years earlier and where she had seen Torrent Ducks. Our COA (birding association) is working with other local authorities on a survey of this species and we hoped to provide a few more pieces in the jigsaw. In fact, we were unsuccessful in this but we did have a great birding day anyway.

Juvenile Black-chested buzzard eagle

We stopped in Junin to fuel the jeep with petrol and ourselves with croissants. We then took the road to Tromen, and within a couple of miles had our first thrill: a juvenile Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle perched up on a telephone post by the side of the road. We must have spent ten minutes enthusing over this majestic bird just a dozen metres away, who seemed quite unfazed by our presence even when we got out of the jeep and walked to under his perch. A privileged moment.

Juvenile red-backed hawk (aka variable hawk)

Eventually we drove on and within a hundred metres or so, perched on another telephone post, we found a Red-backed Hawk, again a juvenile, with beautiful plumage. He was just as nonchalant as the Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle we had just seen. The Mapuche people know this bird as Ñanco, and it’s said that if you see a ñanco’s white chest it will bring you good luck. It was clearly going to be a good day!

American kestrel

Eventually we moved on, but again, within another hundred metres or so, we found an American Kestrel sitting on the phone line. These are colourful little birds and beautiful to watch. I only managed to get off one shot (not quite in focus) before she flew away, but we did see a few more of these little hunters during the day.

Southern caracara, disturbed in his road kill feast

Restarting the engine of the jeep I could see couple of largish birds in the road ahead, picking away at some road kill. As we got closer we could see that they were an adult and two juvenile Southern Caracara, the young birds with their beaks still not fully formed, probably last year’s hatch. They are rather arrogant birds (I anthropomorphise, I fear), and strutted around long enough for us to get a few decent shots.

Chimango caracara in flight (shot the previous week at Pío Protto)

There were also a few Chimango caracaras around (when aren’t there?), to add to our growing big bird collection. The one pictured here was shot elsewhere as I didn’t bother to take a shot at the time, what with them being such common birds (I have several nesting in my garden).

All these big birds, and our trip had hardly started. I commented to Scarlet that all we needed now was a couple of Condors. We did see some too, but later in the day (see below).

Map of our journey

Our journey didn’t work out quite as planned as we never found the place (Newen Hue) that we were looking for. The name Newen Hue is Mapuche (or more properly Mapudungun, which comes from mapu ‘earth, land’ and dungun ‘ speak, speech’). Newen Hue means something like ‘strong place’, a part of the river where the water runs fierce. But we didn’t find it. When we reached Rauhue we decided not to go on to Aluminé but instead to go along to Lake Quillén. I had been there many years ago, visiting the Lagos Marmol home with its spectacular views across the Quillén lake and valley, and was keen to revisit.

As luck had it, on the Quillén road we soon met up with a guardafauna pickup driven by Marta Bachmann, a provincial guardafauna rather than from Parque Nacional Lanin. We chatted awhile. She had done some research on Torrent Ducks and told us of a few places along the Quillen river where she had seen them in the past, although not recently. She had not heard of Newen Hue, but a policeman at the caminera said there was a place of that name along the Quillén Road. We never found that either, and although the places indicated by Marta looked promising we saw no ducks. We did see a faeces-splattered rock that looked auspicious, but didn’t have time for more than a cursory investigation of the river course.

Here we can see the white marks of faeces, very possibly of a torrent duck. This was taken some 5 kms along the road to Quillen from Rauhué.

But I am taking things out of turn. We had stopped off earlier at Pilo Lil, a spectacular collection of rock formations on the top of a mountain where neolithic and (later) C9th century indigenous peoples used to meet. There are allegedly cave/wall paintings there too, but we couldn’t find any evidence.

Scarlett Eastman in centre of Pilo Lil rock formations

We had our lunch here, and then a very good and a very bad thing happened. Simultaneously. Very unusually I had taken off my long lens, the only lens I ever really use, to take some closeups of rock formations. Out of the blue, a pair of Condors appeared and proceeded to circle three or four metres above us, clearly curious as to what we were and what we were up to. And my long lens was in the car, three hundred metres away.

Condor at Pio Lil

I shot a couple of ineffectual photos with my macro lens, why I’m not quite sure but I guess I was in shock. Then made my way to the car, not running so as not to scare the condors. By the time I got there and changed lenses the birds were leaving, but I did manage to get a couple of shots – not what I would have wanted, given the proximity, but certainly worth shooting. My son always joshes me that I permanently complain about ‘having the wrong lens on’, but this time it really was the case.

Condor circling around Pilo Lil

After the condor episode we walked around the mountain top for a while. Suddenly overhead flew a unequivocal peregrine falcon which Scarlett saw disappear into a crevice in the rock face. She then saw a pair of peregrines emerge, circle and return into the crevice. We walked around to a better viewpoint and found the nest, but never saw the peregrines again.

Peregrine falcon’s nest on rock face

A little to the right of the peregrine’s nesting bowl a black-faced ibis had decided to nest. I couldn’t help feeling little sorry for the poor bird, in such an exposed spot, but she had chosen a site where the sun warmed the rock face so I suppose all was not bad for her. And I must stop anthropomorphising.

Female black-faced ibis nesting on rock face

For the record, to get to Pilo Lil we crossed Arroyo Rancahue (marked on Google maps) on the road between Junín and Rauhué and then we turned right off the provincial route and up a steep hill for about 5 Kms. Very well worth the side trip.

On the left the provincial route from Junín to Aluminé and on the right the spiralling ascent to Pilo Lil

Finally, the day’s listing, in order of appearance. We saw some of these birds on a number of occasions.

1. Tero (Vanellus chilensis) Eng. Southern lapwing
2. Chimango (Milvago chimango) Eng. Chimango caracara
3. Jote Cab Negra (Coragyps atratus) Eng. Black vulture
4. Carancho (Caracara plancus) Eng. Southern caracara
5. Tordo Renegrido (Molothrus bonariensis) Eng. Shiny cowbird (male and female, on various cables and bushes)
6. Pico de Plata (Himenops perspicillata) Eng. Spectacled tyrant male and female seen in the bushes
7. Zorzal Patagónico (Turdus falklandicus) Eng. Austral Thrush
8. Loica (Sturnella loyca) Eng. Long-tailed meadowlark (male and females, numerous)
9. Cabecita Negra (Carduelis barbata) Eng. Black-chinned siskin
10. Aguilucho Común o Ñanco (Buteo polyosoma) Eng. Variable or red-backed hawk
11. Águila Mora (Geranoetus melanoleucus) Eng. Black-chested buzzard eagle
12. Halconcito Colorado (Falco sparverius) Eng. American Kestrel
13. Diuca común (Diuca diuca) Eng. Diuca Finch

Grass wren

14. Ratona común (Troglodytes aedon) Eng. Grass wren

California quail crossing the road

15. Codorniz californiana (Callipepla californica) Eng. Californian Quail
16. Remolinera Común (Cinclodes fuscus) Eng. Bar-winged or Buff-winged Cinclodes

Eared dove, at side of road

17. Torcaza (Zenaida auriculata) Eng. Eared dove
18. Cauquén Común (Chloephaga picta) Eng. Upland or Magellan goose
19. Sobrepuesto (Lessonia rufa) Eng. Austral negrito

Ashy-headed goose

20. Cauquén Real (Chloephaga poliocephala) Eng. Ashy-headed goose
21. Golondrina Patagónica (Tachycineta leucopyga) Eng. Chilean swallow
22. Carpintero Pitío (Colaptes pitius) Eng. Chilean Flicker
23. Golondrina barranquera (Nothiochelidon cyanoleuca) Eng. Blue-and-white swallow

Yellow-billed pintail

24. Pato Maicero (Anas georgica) Eng. Yellow-billed or Brown Pintail
25. Diucón (Xolmis pyrope) Eng. Fire-eyed Diucon
26. Halcón Peregrino (Falco peregrinus) Eng. Peregrine falcon
27. Bandurria (Theristicus caudatus melanopis) Eng. Black-faced ibis
28. Condor andino (Vultur gryphus) Eng. Condor

As always, many thanks to Scarlet Eastman for recording and compiling the listing so efficiently.

Weekend birding trip to Villa La Angostura

Posted on October 12, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

My thanks to friends who contributed photos – I have acknowledged where I knew the source. Click on any image to start the slideshow, or scroll down to read the narrative.

Here are some of the members of COA Cauquén Real, on a recent visit to Villa La Angostura. I’m the one with the hat.

Some members of the COA Cauquen Real on a recent visit to Villa La Angostura

The letters COA stand for Club de Observadores de Aves; in English these would be local Birdwatchers’ Clubs. All these clubs are brought together under the umbrella of Aves Argentinas, the national birding authority which since 1916 has existed for the conservation of wild birds and their habitat.

141005-cauquen-real-2-mallin-grande-Angostura

Two Ashy-headed Geese, with a Gaviota Cocinera (Larus dominicanus), in English the Kelp Gull

Our branch in San Martín is called COA Cauquen Real, named for the Ashy-headed Goose (Chloephaga poliocephala), and last weekend some of our members travelled to the COA Tintica in neighbouring Villa La Angostura, who had organised a weekend event to celebrate the opening of their new birding season. ‘Tintica’ is another name for the Rayadito (Aphrastura spinicauda), known in English as the Thorn-tailed Rayadito. We saw both of these species in our recent birding outing, a week-end trip to the nearby town of Villa La Angostura.

The Rayadito or Tintica

It was good to meet our neighbours, and we heard some very interesting talks too, but we managed to get a bit of birding in too, on the way there and while we were in Angostura.

I travelled with friends Scarlett Eastman and Lisandro Gonzalez, with other members of our COA travelling under their own steam. The day was Saturday 4^th October and we left San Martín at 08:30 am. The sun had been up for a couple of hours and the sky was clear, although as we took the Seven Lakes Road towards Villa La Angostura the mountain-tops were covered with clouds. Nevertheless, by the time we got to our first stop it had cleared up and we had sunny weather for the rest of the day.

On our first stop we saw a fair selection of birds:

1. Tero (Vanellus chilensis), Eng. Southern Lapwing
2. Chimango (Milvago chimango), Eng. Southern caracara
3. Carancho (Caracara plancus), Eng. Chimango caracara
4. Tordo Patagónico 2 (Curaeus curaeus), Eng. Austral Blackbird
5. Rayadito (Aphrastura spinicauda), Eng. Thorn-tailed rayadito
6. Pico de Plata (Himenops perspicillata) , Eng. Spectacled tyrant (male and female)
7. Ratona (Troglodytes aedon), Eng. Grass wren
8. Golondrina Patagónica (Tachycineta leucopyga), Eng. Chilean swallow
9. Zorzal Patagónico (Turdus falklandicus), Eng. Austral thrush
10. Bigua (Phalacrocorax brasilianus), Eng. Neotropic aka Olivaceous Cormorant

I’m not going to clarify exactly where we stopped next, but it was a fairly wild area between the turning for Meliquina and the road to Pueyehue, Chile. Here we set off on a bit of a trek, having to wade over streams and negotiate some seriously dangerous cliffs. We were in search of the Torrent Duck, a declining species in Argentina threatened by (amongst other things) the American Mink (Sp. vizón) which eats its eggs and young.

Torrent duck, shot at great distance in adverse circumstances

The torrent duck was our main aim, and we were lucky enough to see one bird, a male, perched up on a rock about half a mile away. With the poor light, spray of the rapids and the generally overexposed background the photos I took were something of a disaster, but will serve as a register. It was a pity that we saw only one of these ducks, but they are hard to find. The poster below gives a better idea of what this duck looks like.

Clearly we were in the right place. Photo taken by Scarlett Eastman.

We watched this bird for a good ninety minutes, during which time it showed no signs whatsoever of movement and could well have been sleeping. Scarlett cites biologist Gerardo Cerón as explaining that the female is likely brooding on a nearby nest and only comes out for an hour or so each day while the male keeps watch outside and sends her back to the nest when she emerges. If that is the case, maybe this example of the species was sleeping on duty.

In addition to repeat views of the above mentioned species on this white-water trek we also saw:

11. Picolezna (Pygarrhichas albogularis), Eng. White-throated tree-runner
12. Martin Pescador (Megaceryle torquata), Eng. Ringed kingfisher (heard not seen)
13. Diucón (Xolmis pyrope), Eng. Fire-eyed diucon
14. Remolinera común (Cinclodes fuscus), Eng. Bar-winged or Buff-winged Cinclodes
15. Águila Mora (Geranoetus melanoleucus), Eng. Black-chested buzzard-eagle, flying above the trail we were following, and of course …
16. Pato de Torrente (Merganetta armata), Eng. Torrent Duck (see above).

We reached Villa La Angostura in time to check in at the highly recommended Italian Hostel (budget, but very cosy).

Hostal Italian, a very comfortable and surprisingly economical night’s stay.

After a quick wash and brush up we set off on food for the series of talks organised by the COA Tintica. It was a varied and interesting programme, and well worth the visit but I’ll not review it further here. It was good too to make contact with members of the neighbouring COA. We then pooled resources for an evening picnic in the hostel and settled down for a good night’s sleep.

Evening meal in the hostel – pooling resources

The following morning we went out on Lake Nauhal Huapi on a launch in a search for Imperial Cormorants. Here are some of the members of the two COAs who went on this lake excursion.

Some members of COA Cauquen Real and COA Tintica, sailing on Lake Nahuel Huapi

Imperial Cormorants are usually found at the sea shore, but some have evolved to live on the islands and cliffs of this lake, although we were unlucky and didn’t actually see any on this occasion. We did however see the endemic flying steamer duck, the only steamer duck that can fly, and this was some compensation.

Flying steamer duck – we saw about 18 birds on the lake

After the boat trip we walked around two local birding spots; both excellent. One was the Laguna Verde, close to the harbour where we had sailed from, and the other a private property, the Mallín Grande, which is preparing for development as a Birding Reserve. Both were excellent birding sites with ‘walk-around’ trails, and I will group them together below for simplicity. I have not repeated species seen earlier in the trip.

17. Remolinera Araucana (Cinclodes patagonicus), Eng. Dark-bellied cinclodes
18. Picaflor Rubí (Sephanoides sephaniodes), Eng. Green-backed Firecrown Hummingbird
19. Gorrión (Passer domesticus), Eng. House sparrow
20. Cabecita Negra Austral (Carduelis barbata), Eng. Black-chinned siskin
21. Carpintero Magallánico (Campephilus magallánico), Eng. Magellanic woodpecker.

Of particular interest to me were the last of these, the Magellanic Woodpeckers, which had eluded me for far too long. No more; we saw several, reasonably close up. These are big birds, allegedly taken as the model for Woody Woodpecker.

Male Magellanic woodpecker

The pair seen here (above and below) were apparently looking for a nesting place, with the male drumming to get the female’s attention and then moving aside for her to investigate a wide hole in the trunk, which she did with great interest.

Female Magellanic woodpecker

We also saw:

22. Carpintero Pitío (Colaptes pitius), Eng. Chilean Flicker (heard not seen)
23. Comesebo (Phrygilus patagonicus), Eng. Patagonian sierra finch
24. Pato Overo (Anas sibilatrix), Eng. Chiloe or Southern Wigeon
25, Pato Vapor Volador (Tachyeres patagonicus), Eng. Flying steamer duck (see above)
26. Gallareta Ligas Rojas (Fulica armillata), Eng, Red-gartered coot
27. Gaviota Cocinera (Larus dominicanus), Eng. Kelp gull
28. Churrín Andino (Scytalopus magellanicus), Eng. Magellanic or Andean Tapaculo (heard not seen).
29. Chucao (Sclerorchilus rubecula), Eng. Chucao Tapaculo

Chucao tapaculo – photo by Lisandro Gonzalez

The chucao and the huet-huet both hide away and are hard to see. Congratulations are due to Lisandro, who invested time, energy and a cleaning bill to dive into a wettish thicket and stay there for long enough to catch this chucao.

30. Huet-Huet (Pterotochos tarnii), Eng. Black-throated Huet-huet (heard, not seen)
31. Macá Grande (Podiceps major), Eng. Great grebe
32. Macá Pico Grueso (Podilymbus podiceps), Eng. Pied-bill grebe

Pied-bill grebe, on Laguna Verde

We saw two pairs of pied-bill grebes on Laguna Verde, communicating noisily with each other as they established their territories. Beautiful birds, and happy to pose for us.

We drove back home to San Martín on the Sunday evening, tired but happy with a weekend’s birding activity under our belts and the determination that before too long we would be returning to Angostura.

The seagull and the shell

Posted on October 9, 2014 by Martin Eayrs

Not long ago I was on the beach near Conwy, in North Wales, watching the birds fly up and drop shellfish onto the rocks below to crack the shells: something they must have learned a long time ago. Luckily I had my camera handy, and shot the sequence; mouseover slideshow for captions.

[Show slideshow]

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RN40 south, day 3

Day: 3
Trajectory: Esquel – Gobernador Costa – Alto Río Senguerr – Río Mayo – Perito Moreno

Distance covered: 549 km

RN40 south, day 2

Day: 2
Trajectory: Esquel – Trevelin – Los Alerces National Park – Cholila – Leleque – Esquel.
Distance covered: 317 km

RN40 south, day 1

Day: 1
Trajectory: San Martín de los Andes – Embalse Alicurá – El Maitén – Esquel.
Distance covered: 520 km

On the road again …

Saturday morning at Laguna Rosales

12 hour birding challenge

The Ruta 40 calls …

Day of the big birds

Weekend birding trip to Villa La Angostura

The seagull and the shell

About Martin Eayrs

Day: 3 Trajectory: Esquel – Gobernador Costa – Alto Río Senguerr – Río Mayo – Perito Moreno

Distance covered: 549 km

Day: 2 Trajectory: Esquel – Trevelin – Los Alerces National Park – Cholila – Leleque – Esquel. Distance covered: 317 km

Day: 1 Trajectory: San Martín de los Andes – Embalse Alicurá – El Maitén – Esquel. Distance covered: 520 km

Day: 3
Trajectory: Esquel – Gobernador Costa – Alto Río Senguerr – Río Mayo – Perito Moreno

Day: 2
Trajectory: Esquel – Trevelin – Los Alerces National Park – Cholila – Leleque – Esquel.
Distance covered: 317 km

Day: 1
Trajectory: San Martín de los Andes – Embalse Alicurá – El Maitén – Esquel.
Distance covered: 520 km