Date: Monday 29 August 2022

Trajectory:  Formosa – Guaycolec – Formosa

Distance covered: 85 km

Ariel and I left at six in the morning for the Guaycolec Animal Reserve, where he used to work. Today was a full on birding day, but this is not a birding blog so I’ll limit myself as usual to one bird of the day.

In fact I shot about four hundred pics today, between birds and other fauna, which I’ll probably not get to process for quite a while. Today’s photos are all off my iPhone (and the ones above and below off Ariel’s!).

Guaycolec was not technically open but Ariel had a key and knew everyone there so I had a very privileged visit, meeting some of the new arrivals, some of the long-term residents, and helping with the feeding of the big cats. I was very honoured to see behind the scenes of the reserve, something not easily accessible to amateur wild life enthsuiasts like me.

Here are one or two of the residents – I will have many more photos in time. The iPhone quality is not great, especially when I’ve pumped up the zoom, but they give a flavour. The first is a ñandu – one of many friendly rheas walking around the compound.

Next, a very young Geoffroy’s Cat – rather more spit and snarl than it seems. This had arrived in the rescue centre this morning.

And a lovely young South American tapir, about eight months old. It will soon lose its humbug colouring.

These baby macaws had just come in too – confiscated contraband from near the Paraguayan border. Some macaw species sell illegally for very high prices.

Time for my bird of the day. It’s unusual for me to take a decent photo of a bird with my iPhone, but this was a big bird (a King Vulture) and I was inside the cage with it for once.

It was Ariel’s task to get the asado ready, with some hefty chunks of meat …

… while one of the other people working at the reserve was cutting up animal food for the big cats. I loved his [home-made] hat.

I helped muckout and feed a dozen or so puma compounds, and one ocelot enclosure: it was a first for me to be so close to ocelots. 

By the time the pumas and ocelots were fed and their compounds cleaned out Ariel’s cooking was more or less done … 

… and we sat down for an al fresco lunch ….

After which Ariel and I spent a little more time trying unsuccessfully to get some decent shots of a couple of birds we had seen.

By five o’clock we were back in town. Siesta, blog writing and supper in turn, and an early night. Tomorrow to two more sites, this time for some undiluted birding.

Date: Sunday 28 August 2022

Trajectory:  Resistencia – Formosa

Distance covered: 180 km

Rained very heavily in the Resistencia night. Indifferent breakfast, ruined by too many noisy kids assembled in the dining room for a Tae Kwon Do competition. Went to pick up car from cochera and realised it was cold, quite a surprise after the heat of last night. 

It was a short drive today, so I took it very easily, exploring byways a piacere. But first I stopped for a decent coffee, car as always where I could see it.

And then I hit the open road …

My little deviations took me through some pretty towns, which the highways tend to bypass …

 … and I passed quite a few shrines, the red flags on this one linking it to the cult of the Gauchito Gil.

Finally I came to the border with Formosa Province, the only province in Argentina I had not previously visited. 

My bird of the day: the Shiny Cowbird, because there were so many clouds of them all along the highway … 

… but a special mention for this wood stork and great egret who were sharing a roadside pool.

And I recorded the demise of a roadkill comadreja – not at all sure what this would be in English.

And finally to my Formosa hotel, booked for me by Ariel, my guide for the next few days.  It’s a bit 1984 inside and there was no hot water until 18.00 but it seems comfortable enough.

And tomorrow the birding trip with Ariel begins.

Date: Thursday 25 August 2022

Trajectory: Altos de Chipión – Goberndor `Crespo

Distance covered: 260 km

Uneventful night, warm as toast in my sleeping bag. Looked in at the police station to offer thanks and make my goodbyes and was on the road by 08.00.

Looking in the back of the car as I left I realised that the neatness had somehow disappeared. Made a mental note to do something about it later – at least I know where everything is! I took away a souvenir of Lake Ansenuza in the shape of a handy bag.

I stopped for a couple of coffees while I finished yesterday’s blog. Back on the road by 10.00 and drove fairly slowly as it was good birding country, especially when I hit the dirt road I had chosen. 

Very quiet roads today. A few farmers riding roadside …

… accompanied by countless birds. Hard to choose a bird of the day but have opted for the majestic Savannah Hawk.

Not much to report at all today – it was a short drive and I was still a bit birded out after yesterday’s strenuous birding session with Walter. Drove slowly, and took lots of photos but no lifers today.  Arrived in Gobernador Crespo at about three o’clock and was grateful for a good hot shower.

A short siesta before retiring to the restaurant area to catch up with email and this blog. Trying to stay off the beer, so went for the standard Argentine drink in these parts – Fernet with Coke. I just loved the dinky bottles.

Not quite sure just yet about tomorrow’s drive. I think a little research is required, along with a bit more Fernet.

Date: Wednesday 24 August 2022

Trajectory: Miramar – towards La Para – Altos de Chipión

Distance covered: ± 100 km (driving from place to place)

Today was my first day dedicated to birding, and an exhausting one. It started with breakfast at my friend Walter’s house. Walter keeps bees, so ‘home-made’ honey was on the menu, and some surprisingly good tea he had brought back from a trip to Sri Lanka.

Bellies full, we set off a birding for what would be a six-mile stroll through a variety of habitats.

It was quite hot, but for much of the time a fresh breeze was blowing.

It was also a bit wet underfoot, but hey, this is what birders do …

… and we left our tracks in the mud flats alongside those of the birds.

I took exactly 300 photos which will be processed later, probably much later as I want to enjoy my trip. However, I did have a quick look to choose my bird of the day, which turned out to be a tie for first place between a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl …

… and a spot-backed Puffbird

My day took an unexpected turn after that, as Walter had arranged for me to be interviewed by a local TV station with him and the local ‘Intendente’ (mayor). 

That was interesting, and I also participated in a municipal meeting to plan an upcoming birding festival in the area, recently awarded National Park status. 

Being here was especially interesting for me as the project for National Park Status was greatly helped by funds collected at the 2018 British Bird Fair (in the region of $400,000 US). My friend Tim Appleton, who organised the British Bird Fair, had been here a few years ago and was remembered fondly.

The meeting ended as it should, this being Argentina, in copetín, followed by asado (barbecue).

At about 11.00 pm we broke up. Somebody had forgotten to book a room at the hotel in Altos de Chipión and I didn’t want to go back to Walter’s house in Miramar (45 kms in the wrong direction, and I had been drinking wine) so the local police arranged a bed for me in a building next to the police station. 

It felt good to be under police protection (especially for the car and contents) and the accommodation was comfortable enough. With the wine and walking I went straight to sleep. I used my sleeping bag, but it was a bit hot – a reminder of what awaits me further north.

Tomorrow to Gobernador Crespo, luckily only about 250 km so it should be another leisurely drive.

Date: Martes 23 August 2022

Trajectory: Villa Carlos Paz – Miramar

Distance covered: 238 km (no diversions)

A short drive today, and a leisurely one. Spent first 90 mins on urban highways and a four lane motorway – a long way from the dirt roads to come further north. Not so good for driving, either, as more attention is needed on the traffic and even if I did see anything interesting stopping is not really a possibility and turning round on a dual carriageway is impossible.

Lunch as always in a place where I can keep an eye on the car. Not quite sure what it was, but very tasty.

Pretty uneventful day, really. Bird of the day the Muscovy Duck – a large number of which were in a stretch of fresh water in La Para, where I had lunch.

Finally arrived in Miramar, on the shore of Mar Chiquita, where I was greeted by this rather kitsch statue on the central roundabout.

I decided I could do better than that, and went for a walk along the shore to find my own flamingoes. There are three different flamingo species here and I’m not yet sure which these are.

Short entry today as I’m staying the night with my friend Walter, and finishing the diary early so as not to be unsociable when I arrive. Tomorrow he’s taking me birding in the Ansenuza National Park. Watch this space.

Date: Monday 22 August 2022

Trajectory: San Luis – Villa Carlos Paz

Distance covered:  367 km (no diversions)

No breakfast  in hotel this morning (it was only US$10!) so got coffee in an YPF station. Left San Luis at 08.00, very slow start with extensive road works that the sat nav couldn’t handle but eventually got onto the open road.

I was heading north-east this time, so was spared the morning sun in my eyes, and after yesterday I learned to keep the sat nav on at all times. Noticed a considerable difference between shortest and fastest route – some eighty km extra for the fastest – I found out later why. 

After a while the plains of San Luis shifted into the sierras of Cordoba. The Province of Cordoba didn’t have an impressive arch to mark my arrival, just a weathered common or garden road sign, but I did notice the ny new province was more populous, more prosperous and more sophisticated – the latter reflected in the many food options along the route. I had seen a number of rabbits along the route, and it seemed fitting that I should have rabbit stew for lunch – very tasty.

You see strange things along the route, or perhaps anything that’s a slight distraction grabs your attention. I was amused by this family in high viz advertising a roadside eatery …

Again an abundance of birds along the route, and I largely resisted the temptation but was tempted by this Golden-billed saltator at one of the coffee stops. 

But my best find of the day was the brocket (?) deer. I first saw one skulking in the undergrowth – he decided he didn’t want to be photographed …

… but a few kilometres along the road I saw another who was more than happy to pose. 

My bird of the day is this red-backed hawk, one of a pair that kept me entertained at another coffee stop.

The Cordoba hills are beautiful but very twisty – the combination of height and endless bends made me carsick, the first time I can remember since I was a child.

Fortunately, I felt better as soon as the road straightened out and arrived safely in Villa Carlos Paz, where my hotel was waiting for me.

Tomorrow to meet my friend Walter Cejas at Lake Ansenuza, part of a new National Park established in part through funding from the British Bird fair a few years ago.

Date: Saturday 20 August 2022

Trajectory: Chos Malal – Malargüe

Distance covered:   370 km (with diversions)

Left Chos Malal at 08.00, after breakfast in the Hostería Anlu. It was still dark and cold though no sign of snow or ice. It was to be a leisurely day as I had a shorter than usual distance to cover, though it turned out to take longer than I thought. More about that below.

There were always going to be birds today, but I decided to limit myself to just one for the blog. It didn’t take long to find these black vultures just as dawn was breaking – waiting for the early morning thermals to get up and soaring. Unlike condors, which roost high in the rocks, these vultures are ground roosters and need a solar incentive to get going in the morning.

After a few hours we reached the provincial border of Neuquén and Mendoza, celebrated with this pic. Today was to be my last full day on the RN40.

We had hardly entered Mendoza when the asphalt road surface disappeared, to be replaced by a tiresome and tiring gravel road. It was [mostly] not too bad a surface but seemed to go on for ever, and certainly slowed me down. Not that I was in a hurry.

As I was relieving myself I saw a small brown furry thing entering water – perhaps a coypu (if they live so far north)? No pic; it all happened so quickly. And I frequently met cows, sheep, goats and horses crossing or simply congregating in the roads. The braking time on gravel is longer so you need to be careful of these, although this road was pretty straight and wide for most of the way. And although it passed through high stretches there was no sign of ice or snow – quite the opposite, with hot sun and clear blue skies.

For some time now the Roman Catholic church has been under threat by protestant evangelists, and little nonconformist chapels can be found all over Argentina. This Pentecostal Church is a fairly typical example.

Back on the asphalt it was nice to see this sign. I drove slowly for the next few kilometres vaguely hoping to see large felines but it wasn’t my day.

And I cruised into Malargüe at about 14.30 to find a room at a pleasant hotel/restaurant on the main route. I always look for a place with a lock-up compound as I don’t want to unpack the whole car, although the valuables do come in with me at night.

At the hotel I took time to reorganise the stuff in the back of the car. I packed the travelling stuff when I left San Martín de los Andes in snow and rain, and it was a mess. It may still look a mess, but now I know what is where and things are much more getatable. I reclaimed the back row of seats though intelligent packing, and put most of the stuff in clear sealable plastic boxes as there is a lot of dry dust ahead. I have a roof rack if needed.

black-billed shrike-tyrant (Agriornis montanus)There was time for a daylight walk around Malargüe and I did see a few birds; near the hotel were an Austral Thrush and an as yet unidentified bird, very elegant, perhaps a shrike tyrant. (Ed. Good guess – it was a black-billed shrike-tyrant (Agriornis montanus).

Had we but world enough and time in Malargüe , I would have explored the Witches’ Cavern with its vast cave complex to the southwest of the town or the bird-rich wetlands at the Llancanelo Lagoon’s to the east, but we always have to make choices. My destination is Formosa, and tomorrow to San Luis.

Date: Friday 19 August 2022

Trajectory: San Martín de los Andes – Chos Malal 

Distance covered:   478 km (with diversions)

I finally left the cabin I have been staying in at 10.15 AM, with sun and clear sky and ice visibly melting. Good feeling to be on the road again.

Today’s was always going to be an uneventful drive, the day’s aim being to reach first Zapala and then Chos Malal by nightfall and not to dillydally on the way. No birds, no detours, just put the foot down and get there. With a late start and twisty mountain roads it seemed a sensible plan.

The view from the windscreen was of course spectacular – Patagonia [Argentina even] doesn’t just have the Andes but also other mountain ranges that can be equally impressive. I tend to drive fairly slowly (80-100 kph) anyway, in order to enjoy the scenery and keep an eye open for wild life, which means I enjoy the views so much more.

I’m a member of ACA (the Argentine Automobile Club), which gets me discounts on diesel, drinks and food as well as access to a small number of ACA hotels and camp sites. Stopping for fuel (diesel, coffee and lunch) is a regular part of all my journeys and I choose ACA when I can.

And yes, I did say I wouldn’t photograph birds today, but as I stopped for a pee this Sierra Finch came to say hello and more or less begged to be photographed. And the camera was handy.

There were other animals on the road, and I was held up for a few minutes for some goat-moving exercises.

Just short of my destination, Chos Malal, I made one of the diversions I was not going to make to see the ghost village of Taquimilán. This appears from time to time in the foothills you can see in the picture below, although you need luck (and perhaps a good imagination) to see it. I spoke to several villagers there; about 50% claimed to have seen the mysterious phantom village. They do say that you need a clear sky in the evening; faith was not mentioned but I imagine it is a useful aid. 

I reached Chos Malal (the name means ‘yellow corral’ in the language of the Mapuches) as the sun was setting, and found my [very comfortable] hostería. A shower, a meal and an early night and Day 1 completed.