RECS, Buenos Aires – 13 January 2016

I spent a day in Buenos Aires on my way back to Manchester and, as has now become my custom, I stuck my head into the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur (aka RECS). I was there for a very short time as I also had shopping to do, but I did have time to take a few photos.

First up, this rather splendid photo of downtown Buenos Aires, taken from within the reserve. This shows how close the reserve is to the city centre, but is an angle I had never seen a photo taken from – really quite unusual.

160113 ba from RECS

First up, I was witness to a battle (presumably territorial) between a couple of coots and a couple of moorhens. I guess these conflicts go on all over the world; this one at least seemed quite intense.

160113 coots and moorhen 2 RECS 160113 coots and moorhen 3 RECS 160113 coots and moorhen RECS

I only seem to have taken photos of three other birds. I remember I was very low on battery and was intending to go to the zoo in the afternoon, so was preserving power. I am also quite familiar with the birds I tend to see here (it must have been my tenth visit) and didn’t register any lifers on this visit.

The ones I did take are below:

160113 pepitero de collar RECS

pepitero de collar (Golden-billed Saltator) Saltator aurantiirostris

160113 pepitero gris RECS

pepitero gris (Grayish Saltator) Saltator coerulescens

160113 striated heron RECS

garcita azulada (Striated Heron) Butorides striata

The Striated Heron was displaying most splendidly – and they are lovely birds to see.

I also saw quite a few lizards enjoying the morning sun; here is one example, what the locals often refer to as an iguana but not really an iguana at all.

160113 lizard RECS

Lagarto Overo (known locally by many as “Iguana”) Tupinambis merianae. Eng. the White-and-black Tegu Lizard.

Atlantic coast, Part 1 – Mar del Plata, 18 October, 2015

This was not the trip it was meant to be. I had got myself to Mar del Plata, on the eastern coast of Argentina, with a pocketful of Dramamine and all intent on doing a pelagic trip – 50km into open sea, with dreams of albatrosses and other exotics. But as the day dawned the harbour master decided that the weather was too unreliable, and the trip was cancelled.

So with time to kill, I wandered around the nearby Natural Reserve Mar del Plata Port. It was a couple of kms from the port area and quite hard to find the entrance; it was also in a very isolated area and several of the people I asked for directions cautioned me about entering the Reserve alone for fear of muggings or worse. So I stayed on the edges and peered in, feeling safe but silly.

151018 pico de plata macho reserva del puerto Mardel

A male pico de plata (Spectacled Tyrant), Hymenops perspicillatus

First up, as I entered, I saw this pair of Spectacled Tyrants, male above and female below.

151018 pico de plata hembra reserva del puerto Mardel

And the female pico de plata (Spectacled Tyrant), Hymenops perspicillatus

In fact, I didn’t really see much in the way of birds at this Reserve, but then again I didn’t really penetrate it either. I find from the photos I took I saw mainly common species such as the Chimango Caracara (chimango), Milvago chimango; the Rufous-collared Sparrow (chingolo), Zonotrichia capensis and the House Wren (ratonera común), Troglodytes aedon.

151018 ratona común reserva del puerto Mardel

House Wren (ratonera común), Troglodytes aedon.

151018 chingolo reserva del puerto Mardel

Rufous-collared Sparrow (chingolo), Zonotrichia capensis

151018 chimango laguna los padresl

Chimango Caracara (chimango), Milvago chimango

I returned to the Port area to see what might be on the water front. Here I saw many gulls, including an Olrog’s Gull (gaviota cangrejera) Larus atlanticusSnowy Sheathbill (paloma antartica) Chionis albus; and Southern Giant Petrel (Petrel Gigante Comun) Macronectes giantess.

151018 Olrog's gull 5 puerto Mardel

Olrog’s Gull (gaviota cangrejera) Larus atlanticus

The Olrog’s Gull is known in Spanish as the crab gull, and this is what they eat:

Neohelice granulata, staple for the Olrog's Gull

Neohelice granulata, staple for the Olrog’s Gull

151018 paloma antartico snowy sheathbill puerto Mardel

Snowy Sheathbill (paloma antartica (Chionis albus

151018 southern giant petrel puerto Mardel

Southern Giant Petrel (Petrel Gigante Comun) Macronectes giantess.

Marine mammals were in evidence too; here are a few sea lions.

151018 sea lion puerto Mardel

Male sea lion in Mar del Plata harbour

151018 sea lion 2 puerto Mardel

Part of a small colony of sea lions in Mar del Plata harbour

As I started by saying, this was not the day it was intended to be but it was a pleasant enough day all the same, even if a little light on wildlife sightings.

Trip to Aluminé, Rucachoroi and Villa Pehuenia – 5-7 October, 2015

On a whim I drove up through Junín de los Andes to Aluminé (passing through Pilolíl) and,  after a side trip over to Lake Rucachoroi drove on to Villa Pehuenia and from there to Zapala, passing through Laguna Blanca on the way home to San Martín de los Andes.

Route of circuit San Martín - Junín - Aluminé - La Pehuenia - Zapala - San Martín

Route of circuit San Martín – Junín – Aluminé – La Pehuenia – Zapala – San Martín

I experienced all kinds of weather, from heavy snow in Villa Pehuenia, heavy rain in Moquehué to scorching sun at Laguna Blanca.I was away three nights and I took my camera, although birding was not my primary aim on this trip.

Leaving home, I saw the usual suspects: bandurrias (Black-faced Ibis), chimangos (Chimango Caracara), jotes (cabeza negra)  (black[headed] vultures), chingolos  (Rufous-collared Sparrow), etc. I didn’t really pay too much attention at this stage but I did snap a couple of chimangos and a zorzal patagónico (Austral Thrush).

151005 chimangos Junin de los Andes

A couple of chimangos in the trees, Junín de los Andes

151005 zorzal patagonico Junin de los Andes

Zorzal Patagónico on a post, Junín de los Andes

A couple of kilometres north of Junín I took the road to Lake Tromen and the Chilean frontier, branching off towards Aluminé as I crossed the Malleo river [thinking how nice a few hours fishing would be, but it was still a few weeks until the season opened]. Half an hour or so along the road, which winds through the Aluminé valley, I took a sharp turn to the left up a steep and twisty track, not for the faint-hearted, up to Pilolíl, a neolithic meeting point with ancient wall paintings.

I had been here before with my friend Scarlet, where we had seen condors at very close quarters, curious about us and our picnic lunch. We had also (briefly) seen a peregrine and made a note of its nest so I went off in search. I never found the nest with certainty; one dark crack in the rock face can look like any other. But I did find the peregrine [or perhaps a relative of his]! Not a great picture, but he was very high!

151005 peregrine falcon tbc Pilolil

Peregrine falcon at Pilolil, with the rocky crag where he was nesting in the background.

151005 peregrine falcon 3 tbc Pilolil

The same peregrine falcon, this time soaring high above Pilolil.

After recovering from the vertigo that the ascent to Pilolíl always gives me I drove on to Aluminé where I had a late lunch at La Posta del Rey. I have been there several times and each time ordered the house speciality: today was no exception. Tasty pasta washed down with an earthy red, a leisurely coffee and I was ready to continue on my way.

pasta

Lunch at La Posta del Rey: five kinds of home made pasta with a wild mushroom sauce.

From Aluminé I made a second  side trip, this time to Rucachoroi. There are lagoons along this road and you never quite know just what might be around. Not much this time, as it happened: plenty of geese (mainly ashy-headed geese), Andean Flamingo and Coots of various kinds but no exotics. Here are a couple of photos taken along the road to Rucachoroi.

151005 Gallareta Ligas Rojas camino a Rucachoroi

The gallareta ligas rojas (Red-gartered Coot), Fulica armillata.

151005 cauquen real camino a Rucachoroi

A pair of cauquen real (Ashy-headed Goose), Chloephaga poliocephala, one performing a delicate balancing act.

And of course, where there is water, you expect to find the the remolinera común (Bar-winged or Buff-winged Cinclodes). Here’s one I saw at the lake in Rucachoroi.

151006 Remolinera Chica Villa Pehuenia

Remolinera comun (Bar-winged or Buff-winged Cinclodes), Cinclodes fuscus.

Villa Pehuenia and the surrounding area were lovely; tourist country and it’s not hard to see why. It snowed hard most of the time I was there, but there was a large bird table which was well attended by comesebos (Sierra Finches), chimangos (Chimango Caracara), tordos renegridos (Shiny Cowbirds), tordos patagónicos (Austral Blackbirds), and many others, including the odd gull.

151006 tordo renegrido Villa Pehuenia

Tordo renegrido (Shiny Cowbird), Molothrus bonariensis.

151006 tordo patagonico 2 Villa Pehuenia

Tordo patagonico (Austral Blackbird), Curaeus curaeus.

Whilst at Villa Pehuenia I took a side trip to Moquehue, a small lakeside town with an airstrip in the middle of the town (go figure). Here I was entertained by the antics of three llamas who grazed in the main street and by a pretty diucón (Fire-eyed Diucon) who seemed to follow me around, perhaps hoping for scraps. It’s easy to see how the diucón got its English name.

151006 diucon Villa Pehuenia 2

Diucón (Fire-eyed Diucon), Xolmis pyrope.

151006 llama Villa Pehuenia

One of three llamas I saw grazing on the roadside at Moquehué.

In Moquehué I also saw a few patos de anteojos aka patos alas bronceadas (Spectacled or Bronze-winged Duck). These are more usually seen on fast-running currents, but apparently can also be seen on quieter water

151006 pato de anteojos o pato alas bronceadas 2 Moquehue

Pato de anteojos (Spectacled aka Bronze-winged Duck,) Specuzanas specularis.

I had an early breakfast on the third day and was bemused as a large gull took over the bird table, scattering all other occupants, including the chimangos. Probably a gaviota cocinera (Kelp Gull) – but I didn’t have a guide handy at the time and the photo doesn’t really help me to see if the underbill has a red spot or not. But I’m not sure what else he could be in this part of the world!

151007 gull at breakfast

My breakfast companion

And then I got into my car and drove to Zapala, with the aim of visiting nearby Laguna Blanca. But that’s another post.

 

Visit to Córdoba, Argentina – Sep 2015

A cacholote castaño (Brown Cachalote) Pseudoseisura lophotes, sitting on its nest - one of ten new species for me.

Cacholote castaño (Brown Cachalote) Pseudoseisura lophotes, sitting on its nest – one of ten new species for me on my visit to Córdoba, Argentina.

I went to Cordoba at the end of September 2015 [for a teacher’s conference], and managed to stay on for a couple of days to do some birding. In fact there were plenty of birds on the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba‘s campus [where the conference was held], and in the nearby Parque Sarmiento.

Atajacaminos tijera (Scissor-tailed Nightjar) Hydropsalis torquata, at the Ciudad Universitaria Cordoba

Atajacaminos tijera (Scissor-tailed Nightjar) Hydropsalis torquata, taken at the Ciudad Universitaria Cordoba

Carpintero de cardon (White-fronted Woodpecker) Melanerpes cactorum, shot on the University campus.

Carpintero de cardon (White-fronted Woodpecker) Melanerpes cactorum, shot on the University campus.

When the conference was over I rented a car. The first day I drove up to the Pampa de Achala, stopping in small towns and exploring the highways and byways between Villa Carlos Paz and El Condor. On the whole this was a good day’s birding. I spent the night in the town of Tanti, a delightful place with great places to eat and drink, although a little quiet out of season.

Carpintero campestre (Campo Flicker aka Field Flicker) Colaptes campestris, La Pampilla, Cordoba

Carpintero campestre (Campo Flicker aka Field Flicker) Colaptes campestris, La Pampilla, Cordoba

Chinchero grande (Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper) Drymornis bridgesii, Maya Sumac, Cordoba

Chinchero grande (Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper) Drymornis bridgesii, Maya Sumac, Cordoba

Monterita cabeza negra (Black-capped Warbling-Finch) Poospiza melanoleuca, Icho Cruz, Cordoba

Monterita cabeza negra (Black-capped Warbling-Finch) Poospiza melanoleuca, Icho Cruz, Cordoba

Paloma manchada (Spot-winged Pigeon) Patagioenas maculosa, El Condor, Cordoba

Paloma manchada (Spot-winged Pigeon) Patagioenas maculosa, El Condor, Cordoba

150927 Cachudito Pico Amarillo Icho Cruz Cordoba

Cachudito pico amarillo (Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant) Anairetes flavirostris, Icho Cruz, Cordoba

The second day was not so good. I had three places to visit, of which one [Reserva los Chorillos] was closed and another [la Cueva de los Pájaros] was a disappointing tourist rip off. I’ll say no more about either of these.

The third place was good though, not least because they had cold beer and a friendly biologist who shared my beer and helped me find my way around. This was the Reserva Cerro Blanco, highly recommended out of season but probably rather crowded and noisy when the tourists arrive.

A cacholote castaño (Brown Cachalote) Pseudoseisura lophotes, Cerro Blanco, Cordoba

A cacholote castaño (Brown Cachalote) Pseudoseisura lophotes, Cerro Blanco, Cordoba

zorzal chiguanco (Chiguanco Thrush) Turdus chiguanco, Cerro Blanco, Cordoba

zorzal chiguanco (Chiguanco Thrush) Turdus chiguanco, Cerro Blanco, Cordoba

I didn’t keep a tally of the [very many] species I saw, but I did log ten lifers. I was able to photograph these to at least registration level and include them here more or less in the order taken. I saw a few more new birds that I was unable to either photograph or identify, thus setting myself up for a return visit.

Visit to Reserva Cotesma – 12 Sept 2015

Today I went with Scarlett and new friend Ricardo to the Cotesma Reserve in San Martín de los Andes. The purpose was not so much to see birds as to do a population study.Sign for blog

We divided the area up into eight sectors and spent time on each sector, seeing which species were in evidence and attempting to record the number of species per sector. Bird mobility didn’t make our task any easier, but I think in the long run the data we recorded will be useful.

It was a great chance to be reunited with my birding friend Scarlett and with some of my local bird friends. A few photos follow, indicative of what we saw today.

150912 cauquen real Reserva Cotesma SMA

Ashy-headed geese, a pair. Very common in San Martín de los Andes.

150912 cauquen comun Reserva Cotesma SMA

Upland aka Magellan Geese, male with white head.

150912 bandurria Reserva Cotesma SMA

Black-faced Ibis, recently chosen as emblematic bird of San Martín de los Andes.

150912 gavilan cenicienta Reserva Cotesma SMA

As usual, there were a number of cinerous harriers flying low over the wetlands

150912 pato tbc 3 Reserva Cotesma SMA

A pair of Southern Wigeon in flight

150912 pato capuchino Reserva Cotesma SMA

Among the many ducks on the water was this pair of Silver Teal

150912 tero 2 Reserva Cotesma SMA

The ubiquitous Southern lapwing, in fine voice

150912 zorzal patagonico Reserva Cotesma SMA

Austral Thrushes were out in abundance

150912 sobrepuesto macho Reserva Cotesma SMA

An early arrived pair of Austral Negritos were in evidence – this is the male

150912 grass wren Reserva Cotesma SMA

Not too sure what this was – decided it must be a Grass Wren

Not a conventional day’s birding but an enjoyable day nevertheless, with good weather and pleasant company.

Stopover in Buenos Aires – September 2015

I found myself with a day to spare in Buenos Aires, en route from Lima, Peru to San Martín de los Andes, in Northern Patagonia. I spent a few hours in the Reserva Ecólogica Costanera Sur (RECS) – had lunch and then went up to the Northern Suburbs to the Vicente Reserve. It was a gorgeous day – hot and clear, with a light shore breeze. This time I was on my own.

I found a few life-listers: at least the giant wood rail costanera, the stripe-cheeked sparrow (tbc) and the The greenish yellow finch (tbc) at the RECS and the limpkin and fawn-breasted tanager (tbc) at the Vte. Lopez Reserve. Some of these and some others are still to be confirmed (tbc). Pictures of these follow immediately, and then I have posted a selection of some older friends.

As usual, click on any photo to access the slide show facility.

150903 ipecaa costanera sur reserva Bs As

Giant Wood Rail

150903 Cachilo Corona Castaña? costanera sur reserva Bs As

Stripe-cheeked sparrow? (tbc)

150903 poss Jilguero Oliváceo costanera sur reserva Bs As

Greenish yellow finch (tbc)

150904 Carau-Limpkin (Aramus guarauna) Pqe Vte Lopez Bs As

Limpkin

150904 saira de antifaz (Fawn-breasted Tanager) Pqe Vte Lopez Bs As

Fawn-breasted Tanager (tbc)

Some of my older friends follow.

150903 gorrion (house sparrow) costanera sur reserva Bs As

House Sparrow

150904 Picaflor Bronceado (Gilded Sapphire) Pqe Vte Lopez Bs As

Gilded Sapphire

150904 bataraz chico Pqe Vte Lopez Bs As

Green-barred Woodpecker (re-identified)

150904 garza bruja 2 Pqe Vte Lopez Bs As

Black-crowned night-heron

150903 zorzal colorado costanera sur reserva Bs As

Rufous-bellied Thrush

150903 pato de collar m costanera sur reserva Bs As

Ringed Teal (male)

150903 maca comun costanera sur reserva Bs As

White-tufted Grebe

150903 hoco costanera sur reserva Bs As

Rufescent Tiger-Heron

150903 guaira cuckoo costanera sur reserva Bs As

Guaira cuckoo

150903 ear dove costanera sur reserva Bs As

Ear dove

150903 cotorras costanera sur reserva Bs As

Monk Parakeet

150903 chingolo costanera sur reserva Bs As

Rufous-collared sparrow

150903 benteveo costanera sur reserva Bs As

Great Kiskadee

150903 rufous hornero? costanera sur reserva Bs As

Rufous Hornero aka Red Ovenbird

150903 picolezna rojizo? costanera sur reserva Bs As

Streaked xenops (Xenops rutilans) – tbc

150903 estornino pinto? costanera sur reserva Bs As

Starling

All in all a gentle and pleasant day’s birding.

Visit to La Punta, Callao (Peru) – September 2015

My third and final birding trip during my trip to Peru was to La Punta, in the old port of Callao – now incorporated into Greater Lima. I saw half a dozen new species here – and still have a number of unknowns to sort out.

Photos of the new life-listers follow – as always, click on any pic to access the slide show. We saw a lot of other birds but I did not keep a complete list on this occasion.

Black-bellied plover (Pluvialis squatarola), aka Grey plover

Black-bellied plover (Pluvialis squatarola), aka Grey plover

Semipalmated plover (Charadrius semipalmatus)

Semipalmated plover (Charadrius semipalmatus)

Semipalmated sandpiper (Calidris pusilla)

Semipalmated sandpiper (Calidris pusilla)

Peruvian booby (Sula variegata)

Peruvian booby (Sula variegata)

Ruddy turnstone (Arenaria interpres)

Ruddy turnstone (Arenaria interpres)

Pantanos de Villa, Lima – September 2015

In September 2015 I visited the bird reserve at Pantanos de Villa, an hour’s drive from the Miraflores area of Lima. It was my first visit and I went with my friend Andrew Sheehan, an Englishman like myself who lives in Chile. We noted forty-three species in the reserve but may have forgotten to write down some of the ones we were familiar with. The birding was good, and I logged at least fourteen  life-listers; photos of those appear below. Some species, mainly gulls and waders, remain to be identified.

The photos below are the new life-listers. Click on any picture to view in slide show format.

Killdeer (Charadrius vociferous)

Killdeer (Charadrius vociferous)

Inca Tern (Larosterna inca)

Inca Tern (Larosterna inca)

Sanderling (Calidris alba)

Sanderling (Calidris alba)

Cinnamon teal (Anas cyanoptera)

Cinnamon teal (Anas cyanoptera)

Yellow-crowned night heron (Nyctanassa violacea)

Yellow-crowned night heron (Nyctanassa violacea)

Franklin's Gull (Larus pipixcan)

Franklin’s Gull (Larus pipixcan)

Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi)

Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi)

Striated heron (Butorides striata)

Striated heron (Butorides striata)

Grey gull (Larus modestus)

Grey gull (Larus modestus)

Spotted sandpiper (Actitis macularia)

Spotted sandpiper (Actitis macularia)

Black-necked stilt (Himantopus mexicanus)

Black-necked stilt (Himantopus mexicanus)

Little blue heron (Egretta caerulea)

Little blue heron (Egretta caerulea)

Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)

Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)

Belcher's Gull (Larus belcheri) aka Band-tailed Gull

Belcher’s Gull (Larus belcheri) aka Band-tailed Gull

Parque El Olivar, Lima – 28 Aug 2015

Parque El Olivar is in the San Isidro district of Lima, Peru, and is a great place to see local bird species. I went there with my friend Andrew Sheehan and saw a fair number of birds (I didn’t keep a count) including six life-listers for me (details below). We were staying in Miraflores so the park was very easy to get to and was a relaxing moment to take our minds off the conference lectures we had come to give.

I am including below only the new species that I saw. The first was the Amazilia Hummingbird (Amazilia amazilia), known locally as amazilia costeña or often simply picaflor. These are common in Lima, and we saw several in the Olivar Park. Never easy to photograph, though! I had to use the flash extender to reach this one through the bushes.

150828 Amazilia Hummingbird (costeña?) Parque Olivar Lima Peru

Amazilia Hummingbird

Amazilia Hummingbird

Amazilia Hummingbird

I noticed a pigeon/dove that I hadn’t seen before, with strange bright blue-coloured hard skin around the eyes. This was the West Peruvian Dove (Zenaida meloda), of which we saw many – its wings are edged with white, which make it very distinctive when flying.

150828 west peruvian dove 6 Parque Olivar Lima Peru

west peruvian dove

Also in abundance were Vermilion flycatchers (Pyrocephalus rubinus). We found that these came in a number of colours – here I am including the most common brilliant red bird and its sooty morph, but we saw other colours too.

150828 vermilion flycatcher 2 Parque Olivar Lima Peru

vermilion flycatcher

150828 vermilion flycatcher (sooty morph) 2 Parque Olivar Lima Peru

vermilion flycatcher (sooty morph)

The bird below is the Long-tailed mocking bird (Mimus longicaudatus); these two were present in large numbers. Cheerful birds, and with their long tails well named.

long-tailed mockingbird

long-tailed mockingbird

long-tailed mockingbird

long-tailed mockingbird – with its long tail clearly visible.

A bright yellow bird flying all over the park turned out to be the Tropical kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus), a cheerful fellow whose intense yellow was a match for the vermilion flycatcher’s bright red.

tropical kingbird

tropical kingbird

The last of my six life-listers at the parquet de Olivar was the Pacific parrotlet (Forpus coelestis). We only saw the one pair, which are dimorphic as in the photo below; the male is on the right. Pretty little birds, very colourful.

Pacific parrotlet

Pacific parrotlet

All in all, a mini-trip but an enjoyable one, and for anyone in the Miraflores/San Isidro area of Lima with a couple of hours to kill a birding site I can whole-heartedly recommend.

Requiem for a King

I wrote this poem when I was twelve years old and just rediscovered it today. I’m posting this unchanged, as a tribute to my twelve-year-old former self. Terribly clichéd (it seems I was reading Mallory at the time), but there is something about it that lets me connect to the time I wrote it and what I was thinking and reading at the time. So no apologies, what it is, it is.

morte

Requiem for a King

In the year of eight o’ three
A noble king did cease to be
In England’s pastures green.
He had lived a noble life
Full of turmoil, full of strife
But now was mourned by just his wife
The noble King Arthur.

A score of years before, or more,
He had started England’s war
In England’s pastures green.
But now he lies upon the sward
With his hand clenched round his sword
The sweat and blood from off him poured
The noble King Arthur.

Several months before, that year,
He had married Guinevere
In England’s pastures green.
But now the girl beside him lay
At the ending of the day
As death did take his breath away
The noble King Arthur.

The very last words that he spake
Were ‘throw my sword into the lake’
In England’s pastures green.
Excalibur flashed through the air
It’s mighty blade dull, hard and bare
A hand shot up and caught it there
For noble King Arthur.

Then, as the night was drawing on
And moonlight on the water shone
In England’s pastures green.
A barge across the water flew
With Queen’s inside, the noble few,
And up to Arthur’s bed they drew
The noble King Arthur.

And as the shades of evening fell
‘Twas heard the tolling of the bell
In England’s pastures green.
The barge across the lake sped on
With its helm of black-necked swan
And then for ever he was gone
The noble King Arthur.

Written at Oakham, 1960