RN40 south, day 1

Day: 1
Trajectory:  San Martín de los Andes – Embalse Alicurá – El Maitén – Esquel.
Distance covered:   520 km

Day 1 - San Martín – Junín de los Andes -  Embalse Alicura - RN2s40  to El Maitén - RN40 to Esquel.

This is the first day of a road trip from San Martín de los Andes to the bottom of the South American land mass. The intention is to follow the RN40 as far as possible and then find a way further south, visiting Ushuaia, Punta Arenas and as far south as I can get on the continent.

For the first part of my trip (as far as Ushuaia) I am travelling with my son Christopher, generally and henceforward known as Tiso. He will fly back from Ushuaia and I will continue for another two or three weeks, working my way up the Atlantic coast in search of wild life; birds, marine life and land mammals.


We left San Martin on schedule at 06.00 and drove uneventfully through Junín de los Andes, past La Rinconada and along the Collón Curá valley. The first moment of excitement was an encounter with a family of wild boar who were crossing the highway as they returned from drinking in a water pool. It was the first time of either of us had seen a family of wild boar and this little group –two adults and two or three very small piglets– was a joy to behold, and kept us in good spirits for a good while. Sadly the cameras were in the back of the jeep, so we have no record of the encounter but I include a stock photo to illustrate the event.

Wild boar (jabali) with young - photo courtesy http://www.fadovisa.es

Wild boar (jabali) with young – photo courtesy http://www.fadovisa.es

I travel frequently along this road and for me the journey really started when we hit the turning for Alicurá, the beginning of a long stretch of the old RN40 long replaced by a fast, blacktop highway. This was a new road for me, and in a sense the real start of our adventure.

We turn off for Alicurá, the first 'new' stretch of road for us, and thus the real start of our adventure.

We turn off for Alicurá, the first ‘new’ stretch of road for us, and thus the real start of our adventure.

As we climbed higher and higher and the road got worse and worse we found ourselves surrounded by ice and snow, the result of a very heavy snow fall the previous night.

Climbing up the road towards Pilcaniyeu in the snow and ice

Climbing up the road towards Pilcaniyeu in the snow and ice

It was cold up here – it was still quite early in the morning and the sun, if dazzling, was still weak. But the views were spectacular, even if the road was a little variable in its surface.

The overnight ice on a road sign melts in the early morning sun

The overnight ice on a road sign melts in the early morning sun

We finally arrived at the first settlement on our trip, the small town of Pilcaniyeu, where we filled up with fuel.

Arriving in Pilcaniyeu

Arriving in Pilcaniyeu

Pilcanieyu is a small place with memories of what were obviously more important days, reflected in its architecture.

Old building in Pilcaniyeu

Old building in Pilcaniyeu

We left Pilcanieyu for a smaller community, Las Bayas, and then drove on to the larger town of Norquinco, passing a lovely old chapel along the way.

Chapel between Las bayas and Norquinco

Chapel between Las bayas and Norquinco

We had lunch in Norquinco, huge milanesa sandwiches that were ridiculously cheap.

An unprepossessing restaurant, but a surprise inside ...

An unprepossessing restaurant,  …

... but great food and service inside, and very cheap ...

… but great food and service inside, and very cheap …

Then back on the road to El Maitén, crisscrossing paths with the old railway line that once united Ingeniero Jacobacci with Esquel.

Part of the old line of the Old Patagona Express that once ran from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Esquel.

Part of the old line of the Old Patagona Express that once ran from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Esquel.

The only part of this famous railway line made famous by Paul Theroux that is still running is the stretch to Esquel from Maiten, a popular tourist attraction which we saw when we reached the latter town.

Train for Esquel gathering steam ...

Train for Esquel gathering steam …

... and in full steam on its way back to Esquel.

… and in full steam on its way back to Esquel.

... and in full steam on its way back to Esquel.

… and in full steam on its way back to Esquel.

We reached Esquel some ten hours after leaving, found our hostal easily enough and enjoyed a welcome siesta. After the remote townships we had passed through Esquel was  a shining metropolis, full of bright lights and attractive businesses. We went out for an equally welcome parrilla and went to bed to prepare for day 2. . Silver the Jeep behaved impeccably, Tiso did all the driving (my turn tomorrow), and Day 1 is done, successfully and enjoyably. Watch this space.

On the road again …

It’s a long time since I set off on a proper trip, one wholly unrelated to work and with no aim other than the travelling itself. And it’s a great feeling to be travelling with my son, away from his work and family commitments for a couple of weeks. It’s going to be good, and I’m really looking forward to it.

The last proper walk I did (with Tiso and friends), when we walked from the hot springs at Epulafquen to the camping site at Piedra Mala (Paimún).

The last proper walk I did (with Tiso and friends), when we walked from the hot springs at Epulafquen to the camping site at Piedra Mala (Paimún).

I’m travelling down Argentina’s legendary Ruta Nacional 40 and coming back up the Atlantic coast.  With side trips (and getting lost once in a while) my whole trip will be about 6000 km in total. That is longer than the entire RN40 (5.140 km) – once I get to the southernmost point of South America I have of course to turn round and come back. To provide a little perspective, the distance between Madrid and Moscow is only 3417 km; New York to Los Angeles 4139 km and Buenos Aires to Bogotá 4649 km. I’ve been saving up for the fuel!

mapa_mundi

Comparative distances – image taken from Austin Whittall’s great site at http://turismoruta40.com.ar

The road surfaces will range from freshly surfaced blacktop to long abandoned dirt and gravel roads, but I am confident that our Jeep, hereby christened ‘Silver’ in honour of the Lone Ranger’s horse, will cope. I hope, anyway. Recently serviced, with spanking (and hideously expensive) new tyres and the roof laden with spare tyres and jerry cans of petrol (petrol stations can be 800kms apart and then be out of petrol!) we’ve done what we can – a fifteen year old vehicle can be problematic, but we are gung ho. Sort of.

Easter 1974, Nordkapp, and a rather younger and slightly inebriated Martin

Easter 1974, Nordkapp, and a rather younger and slightly inebriated Martin

Way back in 1974 I travelled to Skarsvåg, a  township (village, really) in Nordkapp, Norway. The northernmost settlement in continental Europe. Forty years later I am aiming to get to Ushuaia, the southermost city in Latin America and then (just to be sure as Ushuaia could be said to be on an island) driving on to Punta Arenas and then south to Port Famine and then even further south, as far as possible, into the Magellan Strait. (Yes, I know that Puerto Williams on the Island of Navarino is even further south but I can see no way of getting there that would not involve a long sea journey. And there are settlements even further south –on Antarctica– but we have to draw the line somewhere).

We leave Thursday morning, 30 October, early. I’ll be blogging the journey, day by day, although it is unlikely that I’ll be able to upload every day given the remoteness of where we are going. If you live in urban Europe or North America it is hard to comprehend the vastness of Patagonia. As Chatwin and Theroux have pointed out, time spent there reminds one that ‘nowhere is a place’.

Next blog at end of day one (we hope).

 

 

 

A new cocktail – the Ardwyn

Today I decided to invent a new cocktail. Too much time on my hands, no doubt. I went to what passes for the drinks cupboard and pulled out one or two bottles and set to work. This is what I settled on as ingredients:

ardwyn-contents

1 measure Gin (a decent gin is probably worth it)
1 measure Gancia, a semi-bitter aperitif found in Argentina
1 measure freshly squeezed orange juice
a splash of angostura bitters.
Ice
Serve in a tall glass, or, hey why not make up a jug.

This is what it looked like:

ardwyn-drink

And it tasted pretty good. I called it Ardwyn, as that is the name of my home here in Patagonia where I am currently living. It’s Welsh, and means ‘on a hill within woodland’, which sums up my house pretty well.

Rainy day on the Collón-Curá

Click on photos for slide show, or scroll down to read the commentary.

On Saturday 27th September I set out early (07.00) with my good friend Scarlett Eastman, bound for the Collón Curá valley. The weather looked a bit iffy: cold, wet and cloudy, but the sun was trying to break through to the north and east, which is where we were heading. We decided to take a chance, and it was the right decision. Here is a map of the trip – we came back the same way.

map1

As you can see, our first stop (‘2’ on map) was just after Junín de los Andés before starting the climb up to La Rinconada. Here there is a lagoon on one side of the road and some promising wetlands and general vegetation on the other. Always a good place for a stop, it was not so productive as in other days but we did see:

FAMILIA ANATIDAE
1. Cauquén Común (Chloephaga picta), Eng. Upland or Magellan Goose 1 pair
2. Pato Maicero (Anas georgica), Eng. Speckled Teal ± 5birds
3. Pato Barcino (Anas flavirostris), Eng. Yellow-billed (Brown) Pintail ± 4 birds

Scarlett the adventurer, my companion for the day

Scarlett the adventurer, my companion for the day

FAMILIA FALCONIDAE
4. Carancho (Caracara plancus), Eng. Southern Caracara 1 bird
5. Chimango (Milvago chimango), Eng. Chimango Caracara many birds

It was still too early for photographs, at least for a 5.6 lens. Note that in this post I’ve only listed birds once, in order of appearance, although some species we kept seeing throughout the day. The numbers were not very accurately recorded, but may help as a general indicator.

Condor country

Condor country

Our next stop was at the Condor Observation Platform (‘3’ on map), near the Estancia Huechahué, not far from the La Rinconada bridge. It was wet, miserable even, but we had a hot drink and set off on foot. We were lucky enough to see condors wheeling in the sky, flying around the top and side of the mountain above us (when the rain and sleet cleared enough, that is). The light was still poor but we managed a few long distance shots here.

FAMILIA CATHARTIDAE

6. Condor (Vultur gryphus), Eng. Condor

Condors high in the sky

Condors high in the sky

When the weather permitted we walked around the area a little, and saw a number of other species. Some photos below: I’ll abandon families for a while.

7.Tordo Renegrido (Molothrus bonariensis), Eng. Shiny cowbird 1 male.

Shiny cowbird

Shiny cowbird

8. Diuca (Diuca diuca), Eng. Diuca Finch Lots of these were singing their hearts out!

Diuca finch

9. Loica (Sturnella loyca), Eng. Long-Tailed Meadow-lark. These were everywhere, in large numbers.

Loica común or Long-tailedMeadow lark

Loica común or Long-tailedMeadow lark

10. Chingolo (Zonotrichia capensis), Eng. Rufous-collared sparrow (2 seen)

Chingolo or Rufous-collared sparrow

Chingolo or Rufous-collared sparrow

11. Pico de Plata (Himenops perspicillata), Eng. Spectacled tyrant. We saw several males and just one female.

A nearby creek for investigation [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

A nearby creek for investigation [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

12. Bandurrita Común (Upucerthia dumetaria), Eng. Scale-throated Earthcreeper

Bandurrita or Scale-throated Earthcreeper

Bandurrita or Scale-throated Earthcreeper

13. Caminera Común (Geositta cunicularia), Eng. Common Miner 5 birds seen
14. Loro Barranquero (Cyanoliseus patagonus), Eng. Burrowing parakeet One bird flew overhead, curiously alone.
15. Ratona (Troglodytes aedon), Eng. House Wren We could hear so many down by the creek and saw one or two.
16. Zorzal (Turdus falklandii), Eng. Austral Thrush In very large numbers.

Austral thrush

Austral thrush

17. Rayadito (Aphrastura spinicauda), Eng. Thorn tailed Rayadito

Our next stop was the bridge across the Collón Curá river at La Rinconada (‘4’ on map), where we parked up and explored the northern shore of the further bride of the bridge. This was a very productive area and produced our ‘best of the day’ (see below). We have made a note to return on our next trip this way.

Birds we saw here included:

18. Golondrina Patagónica (Tachycineta leucopyga, Eng. Chilean Swallow
19. Golondrina Barranquera (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca), Eng. Blue-and-white swallow
20. Halconcito Colorado (Falco sparverius), Eng. American Kestrel We saw a pair here, but saw plenty more elsewhere.
21. Gavilán Mixto (Parabuteo unicinctus), Eng. Bay-winged Hawk. We nearly missed this, dismissing it as a (flying) chimango, but something about the under wing colour sent out a warning and we followed it to a perching post, fortunately not too far away. A beautiful bird, first time for me and not commonly seen around here, so very happy.

Bay-winged hawk – a lucky find

Bay-winged hawk – a lucky find

22. FAMILIA PHASIANIDAE – Codorniz de California (Callipepla californica), Eng. California Quail. We heard this (from a distance), a strange noise, and found this male hiding deep in bushes. I tried to coax him out, but he went invisible so this is all the record I have.

Californian quail

Californian quail

23. Gaucho Común (Agriornis micropterus), Eng. Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant. We saw 1 only of these.

Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant

Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant

Jote Cabeza Colorada (Cathartes aura), Eng. Turkey Vulture 
Jote Cabeza Negra – (Coragyps atratus), Eng. Black vulture 1

Moving on, we found a track down to the Collón Curá river (‘5’ on map), frequented by fishermen and picnickers. A good place to attack the cold beer and sandwiches we had brought.

Jeep parked up by river side at Fisherman’s ‘bajada’ [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

Jeep parked up by river side at Fisherman’s ‘bajada’ [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

A good place for birding too. Here we saw:

26. Familia ICTERIDAE – Varillero Ala Amarilla (Agelaius thilius), Eng. Yellow-winged blackbird. We saw both males and females. Not a very good photo, here just for the record and at least the yellow wing marking can be clearly seen in the male.

Yellow winged blackbird (male)

Yellow winged blackbird (male)

Yellow winged blackbird (female)

Yellow winged blackbird (female)

27. Familia Tyrannidae – Sobrepuesto (Lessonia rufa), Eng. Austral Negrito. We saw males only.

Austral Negrito

Austral Negrito

28. Remolinera Común (Cinclodes fuscus), Eng. Common cinclodes. No shortage of these pretty birds.

Common cinclodes

Common cinclodes

29. Cisne Cuello Negro (Cygnus melancoryphus), Eng. Black-necked swan. We only saw two here, but saw other swans at distance which might have included Coscoroba, but we can’t be sure.

Black-necked swans

Black-necked swans

Our final stop (‘6’ on map) was at the Estancia Collón Curá, a wonderful place owned by Ted Turner and developed to international birding site standards, with maintained wetlands and reed beds in addition to the natural river and steppe environments. A superb birding place, not open to the public but we were fortunate enough to have an introduction. Here we saw many of the species we had already been that day and also:

30. Pato Overo (Anas sibilatrix), Eng. Chiloe (Southern) Wigeon

Chiloe (Southern) Wigeon

Chiloe (Southern) Wigeon

31. Pato Zambullidor Gde. (Oxyura ferruginea), Eng. Andean (Ruddy-)Duck 4
32. Martín Pescador Grande (Megaceryle torquata), Eng. Ringed Kingfisher passed flying overhead on the lagoon
33. Junquero (Phleocryptes melanops), Eng. Wren-like Rushbird. Heard many, saw none.
34. Tachurí  sietecolores (Tachuris rubrigastra), Eng. Many-colored Rush-Tyrant. 1, in the reed beds.

Parked up in Ted Turner’s Colón Curá estancia [photo — Scarlett Eastman]..

Parked up in Ted Turner’s Colón Curá estancia [photo — Scarlett Eastman]..

35. Becasina (Gallinago gallinago), Eng. South American snipe. 1 seen.
36. Garza Blanca (Ardea alba), Eng. Great Egret. 1 – standing and then flying.

Great egret

Great egret

.. and flying

.. and flying

37. Torcaza (Zenaida auriculata), Eng. Eared dove. 1 seen at the gate on leaving the Estancia
38. Biguá (Phalacrocorax brasilianus), Eng. Neo-tropic Cormorant. 1 seen skimming over the surface of the lagoon.

On the way home we had the biggest setback of the day. After joking all day about how nice it would be to find an Aguila Mora (Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle) perched on a roadside post the unimaginable actually happened. Everything was wonderful: we stopped the car, with an adolescent male perched some twenty metres away awaiting his father, who was circling closely overhead. I shot some of the best photos ever. At least, I would have done if I hadn’t knocked the camera and changed the settings, resulting in such over-exposed photos that they were useless. There’ll be another day, but it was disheartening for a couple of minutes.

Between Junín and San Martín de los Andes we saw:

39. Águila Mora (Geranoetus melanoleucus), Eng. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle 1 adult flying, 1 juvenile on a roadside post.
40. Milano Blanco (Elanus leucuru), Eng. White-tailed Kite. Seen between Chapelco airport and Loma Atravesada de Taylor.

All in all, we had a great day. Nine hours birding, in which we covered some 240 kms, got wet, cold, hot and bothered, and consumed quantities of hot tea, cold beer and sandwiches. We got back to San Martín just in time for a talk on ‘Culture’ in birds, given by the well known ornithologist Roberto Ares. If interested, you can see some of his fascinating work in a series of short video clips on Youtube (Spanish only, but much is self explanatory through the visuals).

Going ahead with Garmin

The plans for our trip south proceed apace. Much of the pleasure of a long road trip lies in the planning of it, and I have been busy these last few days finalising routes, sleeping places, checking daily distances (gravel roads mean we will cover fewer kilometres) and working out where there are (and aren’t) fuel stops. Hard work, but fun.

We have been using Garmin’s RoadTrip and BaseCamp software, set mainly to driving mode but in parts trekking mode when we plan to go somewhere even the Jeep won’t take us. This involves setting up Waypoints all along the route for subsequent export to a Garmin handheld which we can use in the Jeep as a SatNav. At least, that’s the idea.

I have enormous respect for the Argentine Garmin community who through http://www.proyectomapear.com.ar have set up Argentina_Mapear_905_4776, an open source tool that brings together the experience and expertise of hundreds of trekkers, off roaders and travellers, that loads directly onto the Garmin Basemap for Argentina – the finished journeys can be dropped (with tracks, routes and waypoints) straight into Google Earth or exported to a Garmin or TomTom handheld or vehicle Satnav.

The day I bumped into Pappo

If we are going to be accurate, this piece should more properly be called the day Pappo bumped into me, but it doesn’t quite have the ring.

Norberto Aníbal Napolitano, aka Pappo, 1950 – 2005. Photo — – www.diarioz.com.ar

Norberto Aníbal Napolitano, aka Pappo, 1950 – 2005. Photo — – www.diarioz.com.ar

Argentina has long had a love of and heavy involvement with the Blues, and in his time Buenos Aires born and bred Pappo played an integral part on that scene. He played with such seminal bands as Los Abuelos de la Nada, Los Gatos, Aerobus and Riff, and spent five years or so in the late 1970s playing and recording in the UK alongside greats such as Fleetwood Mac’s legendary Peter Green and Lemmy of Motorhead fame. His last, rolling band was Pappo’s Blues which produced seven exciting albums. More info here.

So to the bump. One evening I was proceeding in a northwards direction up the Avenida Corrientes in downtown Buenos Aites, my eyes drawn to the east as I passed one of the many theatres in that part of town where the star turn was , yes, you’ve guessed it already, Pappo. Crowds were forming outside the door, the foyer was filling with blues fans and I was toying, not very seriously, with the idea of cancelling my evening class and joining them.

When bang, crash, wallop I am thrown to the floor and pinned to the ground by a couple of hundred pounds of what turns out to be Pappo, himself not so much proceeding as sprinting frantically south, late for his gig and losing his balance, huffing and puffing like the overweight, unfit blues rocker he was. Like I was, then and now. His hard, black battered guitar case was digging into my neck, and my eyes focussed surreally on a torn and tattered sticker that read ‘Head Music’. It was certainly doing my head in.

Gentleman Pappo extricated himself from the melange of English and Argentine limbs with a surprising nimbleness, looked me northeast to southwest and, ascertaining that no permanent damage had been caused, proffered a friendly and sincere sorry, che accompanied by a muttered reminder to himself to be more careful. Yours truly, not often at a loss for something to say, at such short notice could only come up with the fatuous vos sos Pappo, which was neither news to him nor particularly useful in the circumstance.

A brief conversation of sorts did develop – in English, after he’d worked out that was where I was from. He had a love of England, and this was in any case pre-1982. He invited me to see the show stage side but I had classes to teach. And we were both pushed for time. All too soon, the two ships that had collided in the night sailed on in their respective directions: he to do blues battle on a Corrientes stage and I, somewhat more prosaically, to teach a private class to an industrialist in Palermo.

And that is how Pappo and I bumped into one another.  He died in a motorbike accident in February 2005 but for a certain generation his legend lives on. If you want a reminder of (or introduction to) the genius that was Pappo visit the Youtube link below.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RButQWeIn-c]

Another slice of American Pie

This article was written in 1999 and published in the Educational Supplement of the Buenos Aires Herald. It’s a rambling, derivative and introspective reflection on a song that was seemed to be full of meaning when I first heard it. Later, when I was able to attempt a partial deconstruction, it hardly seemed worth the effort. I only put it up here at the request of a friend. But if you’re into 60s nostalgia, read on ...

It is now some twenty five years since Don McLean’s song “American Pie” hit the charts and yet it is one of those songs that has never quite gone away. I was fascinated with the song when it came out – I was at University at the time – and, listening to it again recently with some of my language students, I have once again come under its spell.

The song is irritatingly enigmatic and has been the source of much student debate over the years. Having to focus once again on the lyrics in an attempt to provide some essential background to my 1997 students (a ‘generation used to space’) I found myself needing to reevaluate some of the muddled thinking of the intervening years. However, the song certainly allows for multiple readings. Mine are no better or worse than anyone else’s and readers are invited to come back with their comments.

Throughout what follows extracts from Don McLean’s lyrics appear in italic script, with commentary in plain text.

The Song

Most people accept that the song was conceived as some sort of tribute to Buddy Holly and there are countless references to Holly’s life and sudden death in an aircrash in 1959. Further, it seems to lament the change in direction of rock and roll since Holly’s death – with the implication that if Holly had lived music and culture would have gone in a very different direction.

But I think McLean takes it further. On a broader scale, it describes the loss of innocence in a changing America through the iconography of popular songs and figures. Think if you like of the world of ‘American Pie’ as the traditional apple pie that Granny used to make – that kind of Technicolor, white picket fence, high school hop image recreated so well by David Lynch at the beginning of his film Blue Velvet.

Within the iconography (and, tantalisingly, outside it too), McLean would furthermore seem to be lamenting the lack of “danceable” music in rock and roll (remember this was recorded back in 1971) and perhaps relating that to the death of a line Buddy Holly would have followed (and been followed in).

In other words Holly’s death cut off the promise of what Leibnitz would term a ‘possible world’ in which the development of music and concomitant lifestyle would have been different, more in keeping with what the conservative, Catholic McLean would have preferred.

Verse 1

A long, long time ago…

American Pie was released twelve years after Holly’s death and probably written a couple of years earlier.

I can still remember how /That music used to make me smile./ And I knew if I had my chance/ That I could make those people dance,/ And maybe they’d be happy for a while.

The social event of McLean’s youth would probably have been the high school hop, and the function of early rock and roll music was to provide suitable music for dancing at such events. McLean, like any other high school boy, must have often dreamed of being up there on the stage with his guitar and bringing happiness (albeit temporarily) to his fellow students.

But February made me shiver,

February is a cold month in New York at the best of times. But it was in February , on February 3, 1959, to be precise, that Buddy Holly died. His plane crashed in a snowstorm in Iowa, killing him and the other occupants.

With every paper I’d deliver,

Don McLean, like so many young boys, was a paperboy in his hometown of New Rochelle, New York …

Bad news on the doorstep/ I couldn’t take one more step.

.. and, like so many Americans, he first learned about Holly’s death through the morning newspaper . The irony of his delivering the paper is a subtle touch.

 I can’t remember if I cried/ When I read about his widowed bride

Holly had only just married and his young bride was pregnant when he died. Shortly afterwards she suffered a miscarriage (1).

But something touched me deep inside/ The day the music died.

In the plane with Buddy Holly were two other big name singers: Richie Valens of La Bambafame and a Texan disk jockey known as the Big Bopper (real name J.P. Richardson), whose only hit was Chantilly Lace. ‘The Day The Music Died’ can only refer to February 3, when they all perished together (2).

So…

Refrain

Bye bye Miss American Pie,

‘American Pie’ is alleged to have been the name of the plane that crashed but I have not been able to corroborate this. However, the name clearly implies good, respectable, American values. The end of the sixties had seen such a sea change is US society, with the summer of love (1966) being replaced by hard drugs, hard line politics and hard times. When Dylan tells us (in the early sixties) that “The times they are a-changing” he is heralding the end of the American Dream. Perhaps most importantly, JFK ‘s assassination (suggested several times in the song) marked the end of the age of innocence: like grandma’s apple pie JFK was to become a memory of another, supposedly better age and his death, like Holly’s, cut off another line of development.

Drove my Chevy to the levee but the levee was dry

Consciously or not, this line echoes a scene in the movie Mississippi Burning, showing three civil rights workers, who had been killed and left at the levee. But a levee could be a place for a party too – the point here being that the levee (like the music) has dried up. The Chevy is of course the all American car, symbol of the American dream, and the levee symbolises man’s conquest of the River. But things are no longer the same ….

Them good ol’ boys were drinkin whiskey and rye

A drink common in the South, otherwise known as a ‘Whiskey sour’ and the ‘good old boys’ the traditional, conservative, perhaps red-neck kind.

Singing “This’ll be the day that I die, This’ll be the day that I die.”

One of Buddy Holly’s best known hits was “That’ll be the Day”. It had a chorus containing the repeated line “That’ll be the day.. when I die”, clearly echoed by McLean here..

Verse 2

Did you write the book of love ?

“The Book of Love” is the title of a song recorded by the Monotones which was a big hit in 1958. Buddy Holly is not credited as having written it, but then again there may have been contractual reasons for omitting the credit.

And do you have faith in God above ? / If the Bible tells you so ?

“The Bible Tells Me So” is the name of a song recorded in 1955 by Don Cornell. The lines also echo an old Sunday School song that goes: “Jesus loves me this I know, for the Bible tells me so”. Another instance of conservative religion, perhaps, later to be contrasted with the disintegration and degeneration of society and the satanic references to Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones.

Now do you believe in rock ‘n roll?/Can music save your mortal soul?/And can you teach me how to dance real slow?

Belief is of course about things that matter. Back at the hop the slow dance was a legitimate opportunity to get close to your partner, and was an important part of the youth culture of the time. The innocence of this time was slowly replaced by the violence, sexual and psychedelic revolution of the 60s and young people lost the ability (and desire) for dancing of that kind..

Well I know you’re in love with him / Cause I saw you dancing in the gym

Those were more innocent times, and times of greater commitment. Who you danced with was really important and was something sorted out long before the event. Young people usually came together, danced together and left together. The liberation and promiscuity of the 60s saw an end to that level of commitment.

You both kicked off your shoes

Dances took place in the gym, and the floor was a wooden basket ball court which had to be protected. (These events were sometimes referred to as “sock hops”).

Man, I dig those rhythm ‘n’ blues

Young whites began listening to black music in the fifties. By the mid 50s white singers were covering black rhythm and blues songs, and some black artists (e.g. Little Richard, Fats Domino) got into the national pop charts. In 1956 The Sun record label in particular fused black rhythm and blues with white country and western and this mix was essential to Buddy Holly’s new kind of rock and roll.)

I was a lonely teenage bronkin’ buck/ With a pink carnation and a pickup truck

“A White Sport Coat (And a Pink Carnation)” is the title of a hit recorded in 1957 by Marty Robbins and was typical male dress for the big night out. Even today the pickup is seen as a symbol of male sexual independence and potency. The ‘bronco’ is a common image from cattle country.

But I knew that I was out of luck /The day the music died/ I started singing…

Refrain

Verse 3

Now for ten years we’ve been on our own

I don’t know exactly when McLean wrote this song (it was released twelve years after Holly’s death) but it must have been about ten years since the aircrash which left the young people ‘on their own’.

And moss grows fat on a rolling stone

The main reference is probably to Bob Dylan whose “Like a Rolling Stone” (1965) was his first major hit. Dylan had been the seminal spokesman for a whole new generation and had turned his back on his rebel past and sat at home (i.e. stopped touring for eight years) . Perhaps the reference is more general, referring to the whole industry which was becoming increasingly capitalistic. At about this time the Rolling Stones took the hitherto unprecedented step of living a year outside the United Kingdom to save paying income tax, then at an excessively high rate. Given the invocation of the Rolling Stones later on the phrase is hardly fortuitous.

But that’s not how it used to be/When the jester sang for the King and Queen

This is undoubtedly a reference to Bob Dylan (the ‘jester’). The ‘King’ could well be Elvis Presley and the Queen very possibly ‘Connie Francis’. Some have Joan Baez, but I see no evidence for it. But Dylan did perform at a civil rights rally in Washington DC, not only in front of Martin Luther King but more importantly for John and Jackie Kennedy, commonly known in the media of the time as the king and queen of “Camelot” – the new age that was supposed (erroneously, as it happened) to be coming in.

Dylan also played a command performance for the Queen of England, and the ‘jester’ may be a reference to his refusal to dress ‘correctly’ for the occasion. Of course it might also refer to his characteristic tousled appearance and pixieish demeanour caught in so many photographs of that time, perhaps most spectacularly on the cover of the LP “Blonde on Blonde”.

In a coat he borrowed from James Dean

Each time James Dean put on his red coat in the movie “Rebel Without a Cause” he was symbolising his up-front, in-your-face attitude to the world. Within a week of the film’s release you couldn’t buy a remotely similar red jacket in the whole of the United States. Dean and Dylan were both icons for the youth of their time. On Dean’s death Dylan assumed his ‘coat’ in more senses than one – if you look at the cover of his album “The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan”, Dylan is wearing Dean’s red jacket and the street scene is reconstructed around a famous James Dean Publicity shot..

And a voice that came from you and me

Bob Dylan came out of Hibbing, Minnesota, and was at first totally plugged into the American folk tradition. He hung out at the Gaslight in New York where he met all the contemporary folk singers – in particular Pete Seeger and the dying Woody Guthrie. Insofar as folk music is people’s music, then his song “…came from you and me”. But Dylan spoke for his generation in another sense, in a way that had never been possible before. With the advantage of a more permissive media, with greater reach, he said what had previously been unsayable. Songs like ‘Blowing in the wind’ and ‘The times they are a’changing’ may seem tame today but they shook the foundations of the establishment at the time. Dylan spoke for his whole generation, and his influence has been seminal, to an extent perhaps not always fully remembered today.

Oh, and while the King was looking down /The jester stole his thorny crown

Elvis may have looked down from the pinnacle of his fame but he was also on the way down, sinking into a life style that would end in obesity, obscenity and overdose. Dylan was a fast mover, ever an opportunist, on the way up. Why the crown (of the new ‘king’) should be ‘thorny’ is unclear, beyond the biblical allusion. (3)

The courtroom was adjourned, /No verdict was returned.

The only contemporary reference to a real court trial I could find was the trial of the Chicago Seven which seems too remote. It seems more likely that McLean is referring to the court of public opinion regarding what was happening to music (in this case symbolising values) and that the lack of a ‘verdict’ is a metaphor for general apathy and indifference.

And while Lennon read a book on Marx,

Perhaps this refers to the introduction of radical politics into the music of the Beatles (a metaphor once again for society as a whole). The conceit is of course based on the phonetic similarity of John Lennon and Vladimir Ilich Ulyanov (Lenin). Certainly the 60s saw a general growth and interest in communism (and a strong US reaction against it).

The quartet practiced in the park

Consistency and chronology would indicate that this refers to the Beatles playing in Shea Stadium, but why ‘practicing’ ? And why would Lennon be elsewhere ? A quartet could of course be any conventional rock band, or could refer to any other group of four individuals. I’ll take a rain check on this one.

And we sang dirges in the dark

When JFK died Network televison went off the air for 4 four days while the whole country mourned. The US was plunged into another kind of dark too – the dark of doubt, despair and uncertainty. The new order – new Camelot – was not to be.

The day the music died.

The death of the music this time seems more tied down to JFK’s assassination in Dallas, once again the death of an American dream as JFK exchanged hopes of a new Camelot for the Avalon of the west coast.

We were singing…

Refrain

Verse 4

Helter Skelter in a summer swelter

“Helter Skelter” is one of the Beatles song which inspired Charles Manson to order the savage butchering to death of  Sharon Tate and others in the hot California summer of 1969. ‘Helter Skelter’ in Manson’s world was to be the day in which the Blacks, at Manson’s instigation, finally rose against the white population in Los Angeles and slaughtered them all. Manson would then lead his dune buggy tribe out of the Hole in Death Valley and be welcomed as the new Messiah. Heavy stuff, mixed up with Satanism and drug dealing and rip-offs, certainly symbolising the end of traditional American family values..

The birds flew off with the fallout shelter

Fallout shelters were very much part of the cultural baggage of the Cold War era. There may be an additional play of words here with ‘falling out’ and ‘dropping out’. The birds (the pop group the Byrds) would also have ‘flown’ in the sense of their known drug use.

Eight miles high and falling fast

“Eight Miles High” was a hit for The Byrds in 1966. The song was banned, on the (undeniable) grounds that it was about drugs.. Both “Helter Skelter” (“When I get to the bottom I go back to the top”) and “Eight miles High” refer to the feeling of ‘flying’ or being ‘high’ on dope and the former can also be seen as a drug-induced description of rhythmic sexual activity. Songs didn’t used to be about things like this.

It landed foul on the grass

‘Landing’ is coming down or finishing a trip and ‘grass’ is marijuana. The Byrds, like so many rock musicians, fell foul of the law in this respect. The line also introduces a new strand, the metaphor of the football game.

The players tried for a forward pass

The metaphor is from football, but beyond that seems unclear. Depending on the game in question a ‘forward pass’ may or may not be illegal. The players may be musicians or sportsman. McLean is trying here to sustain a triple metaphor – the threads of music, sport and political repression – and I think he loses it. The reference is presumably there for those who can see it, but I can’t.

With the jester on the sidelines in a cast

On July 29, 1966, Dylan had a serious motor cycle accident in Woodstock, New York State. He was ‘out of action’ (and enormously silent) for nearly a year. ‘Sidelines’ neatly ties in the sporting metaphor with the marginalisation of Dylan, holed up in the Big Pink recording the Basement tapes, and ‘cast’ continues the double word play – it can be a ‘plaster cast’ or the ‘cast’ of a play in the sense that we all have roles to play in life and this was Dylan’s at that time. McLean thrives on this layering of ambiguity .

Now the half-time air was sweet perfume / While sergeants played a marching tune

‘Half-time’ continues the sporting metaphor but could also refer to a half-way stage of political change. The second line feeds in a new metaphor. “Sweet perfume” is probably a cynical allusion to tear gas and the ‘sergeants’ the Police and National Guard who marched protesters out of so many public gatherings (e. g. the excessive repression at Ohio State University).. At another level, given the multiple references to the Beatles, it obviously refers too to the “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band” album.

We all got up to dance / Oh, but we never got the chance

In 1966 The Beatles gave a concert in Candlestick Park but as it became impossible to control the crowds the performance only lasted 35 minutes. Another interpretation here that ties in with the song’s running thread would be that the ‘sergeants’ (the Beatles) played a ‘marching tune’ (i.e. music you couldn’t dance to), rather than the ‘dancing music’ Buddy Holly would have developed if he had not died so young. Or perhaps the ‘sergeants’ simply represent authorities that prevented young people from ‘dancing’ (read having a good time) in public.

‘Cause the players tried to take the field, / The marching band refused to yield.

The multiple reference continues throughout all this verse . Politically, the reference is to protesters at Kent State where the ‘players’ (students), tried to take control of the ‘field’ (campus), the ‘marching band’ being the Ohio National Guard. In terms of the rock and roll thread (and the song is after all a potted history of pop music) I think the reference is to a failed attempt by the Beach Boys who in 1966 attempted (with their brilliant, underrated album “Pet Sounds”) to supplant the Beatles hold on the industry. The Beatles of course, like the Ohio National Guard, stood firm.

Do you recall what was revealed, / The day the music died?

What was revealed ? I sincerely have no idea. Maybe this is enigma for enigma’s sake. Or McLean is again being a little too esoteric ? Answers on a postcard please ..

We started singing

Refrain

Verse 5

And there we were all in one place

This just has to be Woodstock, 1969, the Festival. You just had to have been there !!. We all were. If you missed it, rent the movie – it’s a historical document. Nuff said.

A generation lost in space

Spaced out’ was a common 60s euphemism for the effects of drugs. Hippies also tended to be seriously alienated from their parents, and thus a ‘spaced out’ hippie could be doubly lost. ‘Lost in Space’ was also the name of a pretty naff TV series in US in the late 60s but I somehow can’t see McLean alluding to that.

With no time left to start again

Too much drugs ? Grown up too quickly ? The American dream irrevocably lost ? JFK and his new Camelot gone. The music that could never go back to where Buddy Holly might have taken it ? All those lost opportunities, lost chances, the what if’s have no future chance.

So come on Jack be nimble Jack be quick/Jack Flash sat on a candlestick/’Cause fire is the devil’s only friend

The Rolling Stones first hit was called “Come on”. Another major hit, “Jumpin’ Jack Flash”, was released in May, 1968 and the Stones’ presumably would have sung it at their Candlestick park concert. ‘Sympathy for the Devil ‘was another Stones song of that time and the Grateful Dead had a song called “Friend of the Devil”). “Jack be nimble Jack be quick/Jack Flash sat on a candlestick” is a children’s nursery rhyme which makes the allusion even more dramatic.

Jack is also the first name of John Fitzgerald Kennedy, and  McLean picks up on the earlier reference to fallout shelters here, with the candlestick representing an ICBM armed with a nuclear warhead. In Kubricks’s 60’s film “Dr Strangelove” Slim Pickens plays a Texan Air Commander who sits astride such an atomic device when the bomb release won’t unlock and rides it to his death and the destruction of the known world.

Such hell and brimstone (fire) are the province of the devil, which leads us neatly back to the Rolling Stones …

And as I watched him on the stage My hands were clenched in fists of rage No angel born in hell Could break that Satan’s spell

.. who played a gig at the Altamont Speedway in 1968. They were perhaps naive, but on the advice of the Grateful Dead they put Hell’s Angels bikers in charge of their concert security. In the confusion of the night a certain Meredith Hunter was beaten and stabbed to death by the Angels to the background of the Stones playing ‘Under my Thumb’ (4). The Stones also had an earlier album (of appallingly naff psychedelic trash) called “Their Satanic Majesties’ Request” and it would seem that McLean is not altogether happy with this aspect of the Stones’ artistic career.

And as the flames climbed high into the night /To light the sacrificial rite

Still in Altamont, Jagger prancing around on the stage while bonfires (common at rock concerts in those days) provide the background for the sacrificial murder of Meredith Hunter .

I saw Satan laughing with delight

The only conclusion can be that Satan here is Mick Jagger. Don McLean is said to have had a strict Catholic upbringing – if he really wanted a return to traditional American apple pie and Sunday School values then he may be vehemently laying the responsibility for the tragic death of Meredith Hunter at Jagger’s door. More likely the Altamont incident is a convenient peg that serves McLean as a metaphor for the malaise of the age, and Jagger is the vehicle, a conduit, rather than the devil incarnate..

The day the music died / He was singing…

Refrain

Verse 6

I met a girl who sang the blues

Would you believe Janis Joplin…..?

And I asked her for some happy news /But she just smiled and turned away

… who OD’d on heroin on October 4, 1970. Yet another music myth whose potential was cut short. Actually, Joplin was already past it – her Woodstock performance demonstrates the fact quite clearly – despite the smile, her lifestyle of drugs and alcohol had little happy news, and like Elvis, there was no way to go but down. And out.

I went down to the sacred store/ Where I’d heard the music years before

The “sacred store” could be that Mecca of the Sixties, Bill Graham’s Fillmore West, one of the great rock and roll venues of all time. But it could also be the local record store – ‘sacred’ because it is a repository of the old music – which in the good old days often used to let kids listen to records in the store without buying them.

But the man there said the music wouldn’t play

There’s no demand for the old music, perhaps. Or kids have to pay to hear it now. Or things just don’t work any more. Whatever. The point is, it’s all over.

And in the streets the children screamed/ The lovers cried and the poets dreamed

‘Children’ here refers in part to the ‘flower children’ of the sixties, (free) loving and dreaming their way through the end of the decade and crying in pain and anger as they avoid the batons of police and National Guard troops. There seems to be an echo here too of one of the most horrific images of the Vietnam War – the much published photograph of children running down a village street, on fire, after a napalm attack on their village.

But not a word was spoken/ The church bells all were broken

Everyone saw what was happening, no one was prepared to condemn it. Just as the broken bells can no longer produce music neither can the dead (i.e. silent) musicians. And broken church bells imply a neglected church, in which the old religion (music) is no longer observed.

And the three men I admire most /The Father Son and Holy Ghost

Obviously the Biblical reference stands, and ties in with the other Christian threads. It could also be the three singers killed in the Iowa plane crash – Holly, The Big Bopper, and Valens. Once again, something doesn’t quite gel here and one is left with the feeling that meaning has become subordinated to a snazzy rhyme scheme..

They caught the last train for the coast/ The day the music died

The west coast has long been a place where all the weirdo cults seem to thrive, and all the hippies gravitated there, mainly to San Francisco and LA.. If the “three men” were Holly/Bopper/Valens, and going to the coast means ‘passing over’ then this repeats the conceit that the music died along with Buddy Holly.

In Celtic mythology dead heroes depart to the West for a better place (e.g. King Arthur sailing off in his barge to Avalon), so the three dead singers (‘players’) could be making a similar journey. On another tack, if the US had always been God’s own country and the US people had had God on their side from Independence to the end of WW2 at least, maybe this marks the end of God’s cooperation, and he has abandoned us to stew in our own hedonistic juices. In simple terms, God just split.

And they were singing…

Refrain (2x)

Conclusion

“American Pie” has been one of the most talked about and analyzed songs of the post-war era.. In it somewhere, if you can get at it, is a complete history of rock and roll but it is wrapped up in such ambivalent and esoteric imagery that it lends itself to endless interpretations.

McLean himself has consistently refused to explain the song but he has let slip a couple of hints:

‘When I first heard “American Pie” on the radio, I was playing a gig somewhere, and it was immediately followed by Peggy Sue. They caught on to the Holly connection right away, and that made me very happy. I was quite interested in America – I still write about the different aspects of America – and to me, something was slipping away and I couldn’t quite put my finger on how to express it. I was sitting up in this little house where I lived and I just started to write this first verse about the day I cut open this bunch of papers [when he was a paper boy] and saw that Buddy Holly had been killed. The memory unlocked a whole bunch of things. Suddenly the song wrote itself…’

And again: ‘I can’t necessarily interpret American Pie” any better than you can,’ ( LIFE magazine, 1972). ‘Buddy Holly was the first and last person I ever really idolized as a kid. Most of my friends liked Elvis Presley. More of them liked Presley than Holly. But I liked Holly because he spoke to me. He was a symbol of something deeper than the music he made. His career and the sort of group he created, the interaction between the lead singer and the three men backing him up, was a perfect metaphor for the music of the ’60s and for my own youth’.

Twenty-five years later, McLean’s legacy gives us a complicated yet fascinating vignette which speaks not only about his own youth but about that of a whole generation.

Bibliography

  • Billboard Book of Number One Hits, Bronson F, Billboard, 1985
  • Encyclopedia of Pop, Rock and Soul, (rev. ed.), Stambler I, St. Martin’s Press, 1989.
  • It was Twenty Years ago Today: An Anniversary Celebration of 1967, Taylor D, Fireside, 1987.
  • Return of the Straight Dope, Adams C, Ballantine Books, 1994, p.398.
  • Rock Chronicle, Formento D, Delilah/Putnam, 1982.
  • Rock Day by Day, Smith S and the Diagram Group, Guiness Books, 1987.
  • Rock Topicon, Marsh D et al, Contemporary Books, 1984.
  • Rolling Stone Encyclopedia of Rock & Roll, ed. Pareles J & Romanowski P, Rolling Stone Press/Summit Books, 1983.
  • Rolling Stone Record Guide, ed. Marsh D & Swenson J, Random House/Rolling Stone Press, 1979.
  • Smiling Through the Apocalypse: Esquire’s History of the Sixties, ed. Hayes H, Esquire Press, 1987.
  • The Sixties: Years of Hope, Days of Rage, Gitlin T, Bantam Books, 1987.

Footnotes

  1. A connection has been suggested with the story of Billy Joe MacAllister who jumped off the Tallahachee Bridge in Bobby Gentry’s song Ode to Billy Joe. Certainly there are a number of surprising coincidences too recherché to go into here but these are most likely the result of wishful thinking.
  2. Another country singer, Waylon Jennings, relinquished his seat at the last moment as therewas no space for the four of them. To this day he has refused to discuss the event.
  3. McLean uses the thorn image again in his song about Van Gogh, Vincent, with its hauntingly beautiful (and frustratingly enigmatic) lines: … a silver thorn a bloody rose, lie crushed and broken on the virgin snow.
  4. Incorrectly recorded by many as ‘Sympathy for the Devil’. The incident is recorded in the movie “Gimme Shelter”. The Stones dropped the song from their concert repertoire for about ten years.

Rutland Water, August 2014

Click on any image for slide show or scroll dow to read text.

 

Rutland Water is a large man made lake in the County of Rutland. The area was flooded in 1976 and part of the lake is used for water sports (sailing, fishing, etc.), and part has been developed as a wild fowl reserve, with other areas set aside for other bird species. I visited it while I was at the British Bird Fair, held in the nearby village of Egleton.

Rutland Water

Rutland Water

ABOVE Map of Rutland Water  BELOW Stand at British Bird Fair

There were stands from many countries – this one is from Santa Lucia, in the West Indies

There were stands from many countries – this one is from Santa Lucia, in the West Indies

From the birding point of view, the area is divided into three parts, two on the same side of the lake, either side of the main reception building and a third across the water. From this third area it is possible to see ospreys fairly close up; I stayed on the nearside as neither time nor transportation was on my side, but with approximately twenty hides to visit there was plenty to see.

Ospreys on the nest (from http://www.ospreys.org.uk/category/osprey-team-blog)

Ospreys on the nest (from http://www.ospreys.org.uk/category/osprey-team-blog)

ABOVE Ospreys at Rutland water BELOW Little ringed plover

Little ringed plover at waterside

Little ringed plover at waterside

The ‘new’ for me included a little ringed plover, pretty but hard to spot, and a little egret (first time for me in the UK, although common enough in Argentina). Lots of Egyptian Geese (I counted 21 in simultaneous sight at one hide), and an unusual close up shot of a couple of little grebes building a nest in open water close to the 360 Hide. At one distant hide I opened a hatch and found four swans, two adult and two of this year’s cygnets, about two metres from me; they were quite unmoved by my presence.

One of several little egrets I saw on Rutland water

One of several little egrets I saw on Rutland water

ABOVE Little egret  BELOW view from one of the hides

View of wetland — from Grebe Hide

View of wetland — from Grebe Hide

I managed to visit all the hides bar one (I took the wrong turn and missed it) and my legs tell me I did a fair bit of walking but it was worth it. This is one of Britain’s premier birding sites and if the pickings were a little lean in mid summer that is hardly to be unexpected. I have made a note to come back in the winter, when migrants are likely to be passing through, and in April, reputed to be the best time of the year for the reserve.

British Bird Fair 2014

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I’ve just come back from Egleton, a sleepy village in equally sleepy Rutland. The last time I was here was on an intermediary leg of an inter-house road race relay, back in 1965. I would have been 16 or so, and was carrying the winning baton on a crucial leg through what today is the approach road to the Green Car Park for the British Bird Fair, held at Rutland Water, which is where I find myself today.

The Bird Fair, with part of Rutland Water in the background

The Bird Fair, with part of Rutland Water in the background

ABOVE Egleton with bird fair / BELOW Admiral Hornblower

The Admiral Hornblower Inn, Oakham

The Admiral Hornblower Inn, Oakham

I spent a good couple of days at Egleton, but not perhaps for the best of reasons. I stayed at a comfortable Inn (I use the word ‘Inn’ advisedly) in Rutland’s small county town of Oakham, where I had spent eight years of my schooldays as a boarder, although on this trip saw little of the town other than the insides of bars and restaurants. Transportation to the Bird Fair, a couple of miles away, was iffy as regards buses (organisers please note) but cheap enough by taxi if you could get one. I also benefitted from the occasional offer of a ride by the driver of one of the Oakham School buses. The Old Boys’ network is not dead.

Visitor’s Centre – with access to the hides

Visitor’s Centre – with access to the hides

ABOVE: entrance to Rutland Water Visitors centre BELOW: Me with Bill Oddy

Me with Bill Oddie - I'm taller than him and he's fatter than me

Me with Bill Oddie – I’m taller than him and he’s fatter than me

The British Bird fair is the biggest of its kind in the world, with exhibitors from all over the world except, for some curious reason, the United States. Go figure. There were a few celebrities around – Bill Oddy, who was very chatty, and Chris Packham, strolling determinedly across the meadow with a very serious look on his face that no doubt served him well as as protection against cholulos like me. I also met Enrique Couve, co-author of my favourite birding book Birds of Patagonia, Tierra Del Fuego and Antarctic Peninsula: The Falkland Islands and South Georgia. He was very pleasant and we have arranged to meet up in Punta Arenas in November.

Shetland Lass with a tempting smile

Shetland Lass with a tempting smile

ABOVE: an invitation to the Shetland Islands BELOW interview with world-famous photographer Ben Tarvie

Ben Tarvie, bird photographer par excellence

Ben Tarvie, bird photographer par excellence

I spent time on some of the Latin American stands, especially the Argentine one, and found all the stand holders exceptionally friendly and knowledgeable. There were useful stands offering photographic and other birding equipment but no bargains. There were several second hand book stands specialising in birding books but I somehow lacked the focus to pursue this (see below). And there were a number of stands dedicated to various aspects of bird crime: a message very well worth driving home, and to be copied to Argentina.

There were several stands highlighting the problem of bird crime

There were several stands highlighting the problem of bird crime

ABOVE Bird Crime BELOW Islay whiskies

 

Some of the many smoky malts on offer from Islay

Some of the many smoky malts on offer from Islay

The Islay stand was particularly hospitable, and I took up their offer to try nearly all of the malts distilled there. The whisky was excellent, but may have clouded my judgment and I soon tired of all the commercial side of things and decided I would pass on any further invitations to invest twelve grand in an all-inclusive trip to, say, Costa Rica: not my style of birding at all. And then I remembered that I was on the edge of one of Britain’s premier birding sites, Rutland Water, so I left Marquee 6 and headed for the hides. More about that in a separate blog.

At the bottom of Rutland Water (under the water, that is) is the submerged village of Hambleton, whose inhabitants were relocated when the valley was filled with water. I used to cycle all over the county when I was at school here, but here I shall ride my bike no more; it belongs to the wild life that have reclaimed the land and water.