Rainy day on the Collón-Curá

Click on photos for slide show, or scroll down to read the commentary.

On Saturday 27th September I set out early (07.00) with my good friend Scarlett Eastman, bound for the Collón Curá valley. The weather looked a bit iffy: cold, wet and cloudy, but the sun was trying to break through to the north and east, which is where we were heading. We decided to take a chance, and it was the right decision. Here is a map of the trip – we came back the same way.

map1

As you can see, our first stop (‘2’ on map) was just after Junín de los Andés before starting the climb up to La Rinconada. Here there is a lagoon on one side of the road and some promising wetlands and general vegetation on the other. Always a good place for a stop, it was not so productive as in other days but we did see:

FAMILIA ANATIDAE
1. Cauquén Común (Chloephaga picta), Eng. Upland or Magellan Goose 1 pair
2. Pato Maicero (Anas georgica), Eng. Speckled Teal ± 5birds
3. Pato Barcino (Anas flavirostris), Eng. Yellow-billed (Brown) Pintail ± 4 birds

Scarlett the adventurer, my companion for the day

Scarlett the adventurer, my companion for the day

FAMILIA FALCONIDAE
4. Carancho (Caracara plancus), Eng. Southern Caracara 1 bird
5. Chimango (Milvago chimango), Eng. Chimango Caracara many birds

It was still too early for photographs, at least for a 5.6 lens. Note that in this post I’ve only listed birds once, in order of appearance, although some species we kept seeing throughout the day. The numbers were not very accurately recorded, but may help as a general indicator.

Condor country

Condor country

Our next stop was at the Condor Observation Platform (‘3’ on map), near the Estancia Huechahué, not far from the La Rinconada bridge. It was wet, miserable even, but we had a hot drink and set off on foot. We were lucky enough to see condors wheeling in the sky, flying around the top and side of the mountain above us (when the rain and sleet cleared enough, that is). The light was still poor but we managed a few long distance shots here.

FAMILIA CATHARTIDAE

6. Condor (Vultur gryphus), Eng. Condor

Condors high in the sky

Condors high in the sky

When the weather permitted we walked around the area a little, and saw a number of other species. Some photos below: I’ll abandon families for a while.

7.Tordo Renegrido (Molothrus bonariensis), Eng. Shiny cowbird 1 male.

Shiny cowbird

Shiny cowbird

8. Diuca (Diuca diuca), Eng. Diuca Finch Lots of these were singing their hearts out!

Diuca finch

9. Loica (Sturnella loyca), Eng. Long-Tailed Meadow-lark. These were everywhere, in large numbers.

Loica común or Long-tailedMeadow lark

Loica común or Long-tailedMeadow lark

10. Chingolo (Zonotrichia capensis), Eng. Rufous-collared sparrow (2 seen)

Chingolo or Rufous-collared sparrow

Chingolo or Rufous-collared sparrow

11. Pico de Plata (Himenops perspicillata), Eng. Spectacled tyrant. We saw several males and just one female.

A nearby creek for investigation [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

A nearby creek for investigation [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

12. Bandurrita Común (Upucerthia dumetaria), Eng. Scale-throated Earthcreeper

Bandurrita or Scale-throated Earthcreeper

Bandurrita or Scale-throated Earthcreeper

13. Caminera Común (Geositta cunicularia), Eng. Common Miner 5 birds seen
14. Loro Barranquero (Cyanoliseus patagonus), Eng. Burrowing parakeet One bird flew overhead, curiously alone.
15. Ratona (Troglodytes aedon), Eng. House Wren We could hear so many down by the creek and saw one or two.
16. Zorzal (Turdus falklandii), Eng. Austral Thrush In very large numbers.

Austral thrush

Austral thrush

17. Rayadito (Aphrastura spinicauda), Eng. Thorn tailed Rayadito

Our next stop was the bridge across the Collón Curá river at La Rinconada (‘4’ on map), where we parked up and explored the northern shore of the further bride of the bridge. This was a very productive area and produced our ‘best of the day’ (see below). We have made a note to return on our next trip this way.

Birds we saw here included:

18. Golondrina Patagónica (Tachycineta leucopyga, Eng. Chilean Swallow
19. Golondrina Barranquera (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca), Eng. Blue-and-white swallow
20. Halconcito Colorado (Falco sparverius), Eng. American Kestrel We saw a pair here, but saw plenty more elsewhere.
21. Gavilán Mixto (Parabuteo unicinctus), Eng. Bay-winged Hawk. We nearly missed this, dismissing it as a (flying) chimango, but something about the under wing colour sent out a warning and we followed it to a perching post, fortunately not too far away. A beautiful bird, first time for me and not commonly seen around here, so very happy.

Bay-winged hawk – a lucky find

Bay-winged hawk – a lucky find

22. FAMILIA PHASIANIDAE – Codorniz de California (Callipepla californica), Eng. California Quail. We heard this (from a distance), a strange noise, and found this male hiding deep in bushes. I tried to coax him out, but he went invisible so this is all the record I have.

Californian quail

Californian quail

23. Gaucho Común (Agriornis micropterus), Eng. Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant. We saw 1 only of these.

Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant

Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant

Jote Cabeza Colorada (Cathartes aura), Eng. Turkey Vulture 
Jote Cabeza Negra – (Coragyps atratus), Eng. Black vulture 1

Moving on, we found a track down to the Collón Curá river (‘5’ on map), frequented by fishermen and picnickers. A good place to attack the cold beer and sandwiches we had brought.

Jeep parked up by river side at Fisherman’s ‘bajada’ [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

Jeep parked up by river side at Fisherman’s ‘bajada’ [photo — Scarlett Eastman]

A good place for birding too. Here we saw:

26. Familia ICTERIDAE – Varillero Ala Amarilla (Agelaius thilius), Eng. Yellow-winged blackbird. We saw both males and females. Not a very good photo, here just for the record and at least the yellow wing marking can be clearly seen in the male.

Yellow winged blackbird (male)

Yellow winged blackbird (male)

Yellow winged blackbird (female)

Yellow winged blackbird (female)

27. Familia Tyrannidae – Sobrepuesto (Lessonia rufa), Eng. Austral Negrito. We saw males only.

Austral Negrito

Austral Negrito

28. Remolinera Común (Cinclodes fuscus), Eng. Common cinclodes. No shortage of these pretty birds.

Common cinclodes

Common cinclodes

29. Cisne Cuello Negro (Cygnus melancoryphus), Eng. Black-necked swan. We only saw two here, but saw other swans at distance which might have included Coscoroba, but we can’t be sure.

Black-necked swans

Black-necked swans

Our final stop (‘6’ on map) was at the Estancia Collón Curá, a wonderful place owned by Ted Turner and developed to international birding site standards, with maintained wetlands and reed beds in addition to the natural river and steppe environments. A superb birding place, not open to the public but we were fortunate enough to have an introduction. Here we saw many of the species we had already been that day and also:

30. Pato Overo (Anas sibilatrix), Eng. Chiloe (Southern) Wigeon

Chiloe (Southern) Wigeon

Chiloe (Southern) Wigeon

31. Pato Zambullidor Gde. (Oxyura ferruginea), Eng. Andean (Ruddy-)Duck 4
32. Martín Pescador Grande (Megaceryle torquata), Eng. Ringed Kingfisher passed flying overhead on the lagoon
33. Junquero (Phleocryptes melanops), Eng. Wren-like Rushbird. Heard many, saw none.
34. Tachurí  sietecolores (Tachuris rubrigastra), Eng. Many-colored Rush-Tyrant. 1, in the reed beds.

Parked up in Ted Turner’s Colón Curá estancia [photo — Scarlett Eastman]..

Parked up in Ted Turner’s Colón Curá estancia [photo — Scarlett Eastman]..

35. Becasina (Gallinago gallinago), Eng. South American snipe. 1 seen.
36. Garza Blanca (Ardea alba), Eng. Great Egret. 1 – standing and then flying.

Great egret

Great egret

.. and flying

.. and flying

37. Torcaza (Zenaida auriculata), Eng. Eared dove. 1 seen at the gate on leaving the Estancia
38. Biguá (Phalacrocorax brasilianus), Eng. Neo-tropic Cormorant. 1 seen skimming over the surface of the lagoon.

On the way home we had the biggest setback of the day. After joking all day about how nice it would be to find an Aguila Mora (Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle) perched on a roadside post the unimaginable actually happened. Everything was wonderful: we stopped the car, with an adolescent male perched some twenty metres away awaiting his father, who was circling closely overhead. I shot some of the best photos ever. At least, I would have done if I hadn’t knocked the camera and changed the settings, resulting in such over-exposed photos that they were useless. There’ll be another day, but it was disheartening for a couple of minutes.

Between Junín and San Martín de los Andes we saw:

39. Águila Mora (Geranoetus melanoleucus), Eng. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle 1 adult flying, 1 juvenile on a roadside post.
40. Milano Blanco (Elanus leucuru), Eng. White-tailed Kite. Seen between Chapelco airport and Loma Atravesada de Taylor.

All in all, we had a great day. Nine hours birding, in which we covered some 240 kms, got wet, cold, hot and bothered, and consumed quantities of hot tea, cold beer and sandwiches. We got back to San Martín just in time for a talk on ‘Culture’ in birds, given by the well known ornithologist Roberto Ares. If interested, you can see some of his fascinating work in a series of short video clips on Youtube (Spanish only, but much is self explanatory through the visuals).

Going ahead with Garmin

The plans for our trip south proceed apace. Much of the pleasure of a long road trip lies in the planning of it, and I have been busy these last few days finalising routes, sleeping places, checking daily distances (gravel roads mean we will cover fewer kilometres) and working out where there are (and aren’t) fuel stops. Hard work, but fun.

We have been using Garmin’s RoadTrip and BaseCamp software, set mainly to driving mode but in parts trekking mode when we plan to go somewhere even the Jeep won’t take us. This involves setting up Waypoints all along the route for subsequent export to a Garmin handheld which we can use in the Jeep as a SatNav. At least, that’s the idea.

I have enormous respect for the Argentine Garmin community who through http://www.proyectomapear.com.ar have set up Argentina_Mapear_905_4776, an open source tool that brings together the experience and expertise of hundreds of trekkers, off roaders and travellers, that loads directly onto the Garmin Basemap for Argentina – the finished journeys can be dropped (with tracks, routes and waypoints) straight into Google Earth or exported to a Garmin or TomTom handheld or vehicle Satnav.

Me, I was blogging back in 1959 …

This article first appeared in the Oakhamian, a magazine for present and past pupils of Oakham School, in 2006. It has been slightly modified here to remove irrelevancies. 

Were you ‘blogging’ back in the 1950s and 60s? Because I was, but it may not be quite what you think .

Today’s blog (‘web log’ in full) is, as readers will appreciate, a recent arrival, only made possible by rapidly developing Internet technology. But in terms of Oakham School slang, the word had another meaning when I was there. To ‘blog’ was to misbehave, to fool around, and ‘blogging’ was inappropriate, mischievous, even bad behaviour. I don’t know how widely the word was used, or for how long, but it was certainly currency when I entered the Junior House in September 1958. And out of nostalgia I thought it would be interesting to ask what other school slang might still remain in OOs’ memories behind the cobwebs of dimly recalled youth.

In 1958 Oakham was a small direct grant school, recovering from the war years and right at the end of the spartan regime that characterised the public school system. I was sent to Junior House at the age of just nine and my earliest memories there are of ‘new bugs’, ‘bear leaders’, ‘senior’s orders’ and punishments ‘officially’ meted out by the big boys (the eleven and twelve year old ‘prefects’), who gave us ‘bicycle rides’, ‘crumps’ and ‘clouts’ as the whim took them. I remember that one of the prefects had an electric shock machine which was used to administer shock therapy. (Later on in school life my study mate, a budding chemist, stored nitroglycerine in the roof, an equally horrifying memory now that I reflect on it, but that’s another story). But as for the shock machine; I can only give thanks to my guardian angel that it never occurred to the young tormentor to connect it to the mains. ‘Sneaking’ was out of the question and we bore our grief stoically.

‘Senior’s orders’ was a particularly galling experience. At its simplest, it meant that a ‘new bug’ had to do whatever a senior (i.e. a boy with longer time at Oakham than he) told him. Anything. I can remember in my first term being forced to lie in the old dyke that once ran across what is now known as Farside. It was the middle of winter and I was obliged to lie down in the freezing mud and slush because another boy – who was all of nine and three-quarters – so wished. This was senior’s orders.

Oakham in the late 1950s was Corps, Cricket, Chapel and the cane; fagging, cold showers and cross-country runs; the town largely out of bounds save a permitted visit to Tom Froud’s store in Choir Close where we could buy pomegranates and sherbet, and a little later to Stricklands, by the castle entry. At the age of ten I broke bounds to go to the only ‘record shop’ Oakham then sported, to buy Eddie Cochran’s ‘My Way’ (not the Paul Anka version made famous by Sinatra, but an earlier and earthier number) and was spotted by a member of staff. I guess he must have liked Eddie Cochran, because he let me off with a lecture, the main point of which seemed to be that the crime of being caught was more serious than the crime of breaking bounds.

Some of my school memories have a quasi-military flavour. I was senior scout in the school troop (not that there were that many of us) and with huge pride carried the flag at the County Jamboree. Some years later, dressed in paramilitary uniform (tracksuit top and CCF beret with cap badge removed) and carrying a lighted torch in one hand and an oak swatch in the other I marched under the banner of ‘Rutland fights for minority rights’. But my crowning military glory was raising the flag at the Annual Inspection, my colour sergeant’s red sash mirroring my flush of embarrassment when the flag looked like it wasn’t going to unfurl (fortunately it eventually did).

Why it was me raising the flag was a curious blend of laziness and nepotism. One of the best sinecures in school life was to get the coveted position of CCF Quartermaster. This involved little work other than convincing smaller boys that the ill-fitting kit and boots I issued them with were fine and should be accepted with thanks and forbearance but it kept me out of the rain and afforded me a key to the QM stores – fortuitously across the road from Chapmans – and thus a bolt hole for whatever mayhem occurred to me at any time of day or night. In hindsight, this prerogative was not abused as much as it might have been and was mainly a chance to go for a peaceful cigarette without having to look over my shoulder all the time. The fag ends found their way into a convenient screw top bottle.

I’m not sure now quite how I got this post but I sense that Jack Cox, master i/c the CCF, had a hand in it. He had been in the army proper with my father and it was in part Jack’s coming to Oakham that persuaded my father to send me there. Certainly he ‘looked out’ for me from time to time – on one occasion he told me to kindly hide the bottle a little more carefully; this at a time when being caught smoking was ample grounds for expulsion.

This generosity of spirit was missing when I was ‘gated’ for two weeks for the ‘offence’ of being seen talking to a girl in the town (Cathy Rxxxr of Manton, if she remembers). Actually to be fair it wasn’t exactly in the street but in the ‘tin mines’ where we used to go at weekends, on the road to Brooke as I remember, so there may have been some due cause, but it still rankles. So too does the fact that Oakham didn’t have female students when I was there, but for different reasons.

There were traditions too – although one never knows how much they grow with the remembering. Does anyone I wonder now remember the ‘Burley bum-basher bed walk’, a ritual in which one had to walk or jump on every bed in every senior boarding house in the space of one hour? I last performed this somewhat pointless feat, the logistics of which posed a serious challenge as I remember, trampling my way a little drunkenly through the dormitories of Deanscroft, Wharflands, Chapmans and School House on my last night at Oakham in June 1966. My colleagues in College House (in 1966 in its first year under the brilliant Chris Dixon, to whom I owe so much) were spared.

Looking back at all this now, it was another world. Why I was not unhappy defeats me, but on the whole I wasn’t. But I must return to my topic: the Oakham vocabulary of the 50s. Latin was still very much on the curriculum in 1958 and active in the schoolboy’s vocabulary too. Earnest preteens would call out cave (beware) whenever a teacher approached, while those with goods to dispose of would call out quis? (Latin for ‘who’, and for some reason pronounced ‘quiz’) to which the standard reply was ego (I, or me). If the article was undesirable the acquisition could be negated by retorting d, and to avoid this the person calling quis could qualify with no d’s – the whole point here being to get rid of (and avoid receiving) unwanted chattels.

These Latinisms would have been common to many schools. I would very much like to know what words (like ‘blog’) were peculiar to Oakham or used more widely. Did boys and girls in other schools used to say ‘bags I’ to claim something? Or ‘fains’ to exclude themselves? Were these expressions common in other schools, or are they native Oakham slang? If anyone ever gets to read this entry it would be fun to share memories and see what we can reconstruct.

As for the ‘Burley bum-basher bed walk’, I can’t be the only one now prepared to own up after almost fifty years. Or did I dream it all up?

 

Birding trip to Vado Kemkemtreu

Click on photos for slide show or scroll down to read commentary.

The Ford at Kemkemtreu (aka Quemquemtreu). Fortunately — the water was low.

The Ford at Kemkemtreu (aka Quemquemtreu). Fortunately — the water was low.

On Sunday 14 September 2014 I went with my good friend and birding guide Scarlett Eastman to the Vado Kemkemtreu (that’s the ford by the Estancia Kemkemtreu, high in the Patagonian Steppe in the Argentine Province of Neuquén). The picture above will give you some idea of the remoteness of the area.

A Hare is alert to our presence some 200 metres away.

A Hare is alert to our presence some 200 metres away.

We left San Martín de los Andes about 08.30, equipped with food and drink and a full tank for the Chero. It was a gorgeous day, and we made two stops: one at the Estancia Tipiliuke and one at the fording place above, At each place we walked around a bit; the birding was good, very good, but the photography a little disappointing: the fault of the photographer, who still has a lot to learn, and not the equipment nor the light.

Three French sons went off from here to fight in WW1; before leaving each erected a cross on top of this peak. Only one returned, and he incorporated the two crosses of his fallen brothers into a memory of them, which you see here (or at least a replica, I’m told). Full story elsewhere in this blog: search ‘Larminat’.

We passed the Larminat cross on Cerro de los Pinos at Tipiliuke (the name means ‘upside down heart’ in Mapuche). Three French sons went off from here to fight in WW1; before leaving each erected a cross on top of this peak. Only one returned, and he incorporated the two crosses of his fallen brothers into a memory of them, which you see here (or at least a replica, I’m told). Full story elsewhere in this blog: search ‘Larminat’.

We passed the Larminat cross on Cerro de los Pinos at Tipiliuke (the name means ‘upside down heart’ in Mapuche).

Scarlett kept a list of the birds we saw, and where which I shall populate with a few of the pics that did come out. It is arranged not chronologically but in family order – that is the way she did it, and who am I to intervene?  But it was not just birds we saw: at Tililiuke we were lucky to see a couple of Andean foxes whiling away a lazy Sunday morning, one stretched out like a hedonist on a sunny, stony bank, while the other prowled around sniffing and nibbling sundry offerings.

Andean fox  #1 – the sleepyhead

Andean fox #1 – the sleepyhead

Andean fox #2 – the prowler

Andean fox #2 – the prowler

We also saw a European Hare in the distance – an imported species now long established in Argentina. Neither the hare nor the foxes seemed the slightest bit disturbed by our presence.

But on with the birds; here is the list of what we saw (or in one case, heard). Pictures of some of these below.

FAMILIA PODICIPEDIDAE
Macá Grande Huala (Podiceps mayor) Eng. Great Grebe.
Macá Común (Rollandia rolland) Eng. White-tufted Grebe.

White-tufted Grebe at Tipiliuke

White-tufted Grebe at Tipiliuke

FAMILIA ARDEIDAE
Garza Blanca (Ardea alba) Eng. Great Egret.

FAMILIA THRESKIORNITHIDAE
Bandurria Austral (Theristicus melanopis) Eng. Black-faced Ibis

Black-faced Ibis – one of several we saw at Tipiliuke

Black-faced Ibis – one of several we saw at Tipiliuke

FAMILIA CATHARTIDAE
Jote Cabeza Negra (Coragyps atratus) Eng. Black Vulture
Jote Cabeza Colorada (Cathartes aura) Eng. Turkey Vulture

FAMILIA ANATIDAE
Cauquén Común (Chloephaga picta) Eng. Upland or Magellan Goose

Upland or Magellan Goose

Upland or Magellan Goose

Cauquén Real (Chloephaga poliocephala) Eng. Ashy-headed Goose
Pato Overo (Anas sibilatrix) Eng. Chiloe (Southern) Wigeon
Pato Maicero (Anas geórgica) Eng. Yellow-billed (Brown) Pintail

Yellow-billed (Brown) Pintail

Yellow-billed (Brown) Pintail

Pato Colorado (Anas cyanoptera) Eng. Cinnamon Teal
Pato Barcino (Anas flavirostris) Eng. Speckled Teal
Pato Zambullidor Chico (Oxyura vittata) Eng Lake Duck

FAMILIA ACCIPITRIDAE
Águila Mora (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) Eng. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle

A pair of Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles (Aguilas Mora)

A pair of Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles (Aguilas Mora)

FAMILIA FALCONIDAE
Halconcito Colorado (Falco sparverius) Eng. American Kestrel

American kestrels were everywhere – small but very efficient killing machines

American kestrels were everywhere – small but very efficient killing machines

Carancho (Caracara plancus) Eng. Southern Caracara
Chimango (Milvago chimango) Eng. Chimango Caracara

Chimango Caracara soars over Tipiliuke valley

Chimango Caracara soars over Tipiliuke valley

FAMILIA RALLIDAE Gallareta Chica (Fulica leucoptera) Eng. White winged coot

FAMILIA CHARADRIDAE
Tero Común (Vanellus chilensis) Eng. Southern Lapwing

FAMILIA FURNARIDAE
Junquero (Phleocryptes melanops) Eng. Wren-like Rushbird [escuchado]

Scarlett goes to take a closer look

Scarlett goes to take a closer look

FAMILIA COLUMBIDAE
Torcaza (Zenaida auriculata) Eng. Eared Dove

FAMILIA TYRANNIDAE
Sobrepuesto (Lessonia rufa) Eng. Rufous-backed Negrito
Gaucho Grande (Agriornis lividus) Eng. Great Shrike-Tyrant
Dormilona Cara Negra (Muscisaxicola maclovianus) Eng. Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant
Dormilona Fraile (Muscisaxicola flavinucha) Eng. Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant
Pico de Plata (Hymenops perspicillatus) Eng. Spectacled Tyrant

Spectacled tyrant – the males were arriving up on the Steppe, but no females yet.

Spectacled tyrant – the males were arriving up on the Steppe, but no females yet.

FAMILIA HIRUNDINIDAE
Golondrina Patagónica (Tachycineta leucopyga) Eng. Chilean Swallow

FAMILIA PSITTACIDAE
Loro Barranquero (Cyanoliseus patagonus) Eng. Burrowing Parakeet

Flocks of Burrowing Parakeets came and went all through the day

Flocks of Burrowing Parakeets came and went all through the day

FAMILIA MIMIDAE
Calandria Mora (Mimus patagonicus) Eng. Patagonian Mockingbird

Patagonian Mocking Bird – one of four who hung around for a long time

Patagonian Mocking Bird – one of four who hung around for a long time

FAMILIA ICTERIDAE
Tordo Patagónico (Curaeus curaeus) Eng. Austral Blackbird
Loica (Sturnella loyca) Eng. Long-tailed Meadowlark

The Long-tailed Meadowlark, with it’s distinctive red breast. Males only for now, females will be along later.

The Long-tailed Meadowlark, with it’s distinctive red breast. Males only for now, females will be along later.

FAMILIA FRINGILLIDAE
Cabecita Negra común (Carduelis barbata) Eng. Hooded Siskin

The day I bumped into Pappo

If we are going to be accurate, this piece should more properly be called the day Pappo bumped into me, but it doesn’t quite have the ring.

Norberto Aníbal Napolitano, aka Pappo, 1950 – 2005. Photo — – www.diarioz.com.ar

Norberto Aníbal Napolitano, aka Pappo, 1950 – 2005. Photo — – www.diarioz.com.ar

Argentina has long had a love of and heavy involvement with the Blues, and in his time Buenos Aires born and bred Pappo played an integral part on that scene. He played with such seminal bands as Los Abuelos de la Nada, Los Gatos, Aerobus and Riff, and spent five years or so in the late 1970s playing and recording in the UK alongside greats such as Fleetwood Mac’s legendary Peter Green and Lemmy of Motorhead fame. His last, rolling band was Pappo’s Blues which produced seven exciting albums. More info here.

So to the bump. One evening I was proceeding in a northwards direction up the Avenida Corrientes in downtown Buenos Aites, my eyes drawn to the east as I passed one of the many theatres in that part of town where the star turn was , yes, you’ve guessed it already, Pappo. Crowds were forming outside the door, the foyer was filling with blues fans and I was toying, not very seriously, with the idea of cancelling my evening class and joining them.

When bang, crash, wallop I am thrown to the floor and pinned to the ground by a couple of hundred pounds of what turns out to be Pappo, himself not so much proceeding as sprinting frantically south, late for his gig and losing his balance, huffing and puffing like the overweight, unfit blues rocker he was. Like I was, then and now. His hard, black battered guitar case was digging into my neck, and my eyes focussed surreally on a torn and tattered sticker that read ‘Head Music’. It was certainly doing my head in.

Gentleman Pappo extricated himself from the melange of English and Argentine limbs with a surprising nimbleness, looked me northeast to southwest and, ascertaining that no permanent damage had been caused, proffered a friendly and sincere sorry, che accompanied by a muttered reminder to himself to be more careful. Yours truly, not often at a loss for something to say, at such short notice could only come up with the fatuous vos sos Pappo, which was neither news to him nor particularly useful in the circumstance.

A brief conversation of sorts did develop – in English, after he’d worked out that was where I was from. He had a love of England, and this was in any case pre-1982. He invited me to see the show stage side but I had classes to teach. And we were both pushed for time. All too soon, the two ships that had collided in the night sailed on in their respective directions: he to do blues battle on a Corrientes stage and I, somewhat more prosaically, to teach a private class to an industrialist in Palermo.

And that is how Pappo and I bumped into one another.  He died in a motorbike accident in February 2005 but for a certain generation his legend lives on. If you want a reminder of (or introduction to) the genius that was Pappo visit the Youtube link below.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RButQWeIn-c]

Justice Buenos Aires style, 1970s

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Rivadavia Street is in the heart of the business centre of Buenos Aires, and it was in the early 1970s, in the fourth floor premises of a law firm in the low 600s of this Street, that some young atorrantes determined to crash in and grab what they could. Their minds were no doubt set on loose cash, jewellery and random luck – this was before even electronic calculators were common property and the latest technology was Telex (remember Telex?).

One has to assume that these three lads were not very good at their chosen métier. Their attempts to intimidate the receptionist with a length of piping and a replica pistol were rebuffed by two other staff members, members of the San Isidro Club’s first Rugby team, who had happened to follow the delinquents in and had little difficulty in overpowering them. The mismatch of four rugbier arms and six delinquent legs led to one escaped lad and two detained intruders.

The senior partners were quick on the scene and quick to arrange tea and biscuits (or the Argentine equivalent) for all concerned, and to call the local precinct to arrange for the young intruders, now cowed and compliant, to be taken away. Life, it seemed, was about to be restored to normal. Indeed, a sergeant and two patrolmen arrived with ten minutes or so, and, handcuffing the delinquents to a convenient radiator, took their tea and biscuits while appraising themselves of the situation. Then, without warning, events took on a different complexion.

All staff in the law firm were asked to leave the premises ‘for forensic reasons’, and duly and dutifully trooped down to the coffee shop across the road to await further instructions. The senior lawyers, more cognizant of police budgets and resourcing, had some inkling of what was coming; the younger staff had no idea at all, other than perhaps to reflect vaguely on just what ‘forensic reasons’ might mean.

The relocated law firm were all sitting nursing their coffees, somewhat subdued, when the shots rang out. Two shots, in quick succession. Almost simultaneously the bottom half of a two-blue police truck appeared in the narrow half window of the café that looked out onto the street. Eight legs and two stretchers emerged and made their way into the building; in no time at all they were back down in the street. This time the stretchers were substantially heavier and accompanied by six extra legs as the centipede steered its way into the truck. Two rear legs detached themselves and strolled across to the window of the coffee shop. A peaked cap bent down to give a thumbs up to one of the senior partners –it was now ok to go back up again– and the two-blue truck drove off quietly.

The report in La Nación was brief but to the point – two young criminals had broken into a city centre law firm and had been killed trying to shoot themselves out in a gun battle with the police. Fortunately none of the police was injured. One police regulation handcuff, still attached to a rusty fourth floor radiator stood for many years in mute contradiction. For all I know it stands there still.

 

 

Strange days revisited

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A random and colorful group of street performers are posing on the sidewalk in Sniffen Court, a residential alley off New York’s East 36th Street. What appears to be a dwarf in a light gray suit (or conceivably, if less likely, a small boy) is dancing energetically, Dylan like, only with two hands ‘waving free’. A stout circus strongman dressed fetchingly in an over tight black singlet and loose zebra-striped sarong is raising above his head what we must imagine to be a dumbbell as the view we have is cut off at wrist height.

Above the dwarf-child a white-faced man in a dark suit is juggling a number of red balls, his features screwed into a mask of intense concentration. Behind these figures another dark suited man concentrates on supporting a leotarded figure whose body is arced in a swallow dive as he balances precariously in mid air. At the rear of the group a straw-hatted man is stood to attention, arms raised as he solemnly plays a trumpet, for all the world as if he were alone and all around him non-existent.

Not all these people are actual street performers: I am reliably informed through my research that the photographer’s assistant is standing in as a juggler while the musician is a passing cab driver who is earning five dollars for his artistic contribution.

The curious scene I am describing is that shown on an old album cover I have propped up in front of me as I write, one which I loved when it came out and still fills me with nostalgia: Strange Days, by The Doors, recorded and issued in 1967.

Sing a (happy) song of Wifi

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What a great feeling when I walk into a bar that I have no recollection of having ever visited and find that I must have –and, working it out with my travel diary, at least four years ago– because the wifi remembers me.

Well, it’s not exactly the wifi that remembered me, but Apple’s wonderful Time Machine and Migration Assistant and the fact that my settings are automatically updated across all my machines. So each time I buy a new laptop or handheld it inherits all my wifi passwords going back until I started using Time Machine, about 4 years ago.

This is how software should be – like the telephone, invisible and just working in the background. No, I’m not selling Apple –they have some good stuff, but so do other manufacturers– but I do like the way that some aspects of software do work, and in doing so make your life simple. Sadly, there is other software …

Painamal the condor returns to the wild

Click on any image for a slide show or scroll down to read the commentary.

The big bird spreads her wings

The big bird spreads her wings

Condors are large birds and up close you really appreciate their size. This adult female was being released after three months of rehabilitation and it was a joy to watch as she spread her wings and soared over the valley. Once she found an air current she was in heaven.

Meeting with guardafauna in San Martín to discuss the release — with Hilda Dalmau Ruiz, Scarlett Eastman, Martin Eayrs, Ñandu Capdevila, Maria Ana Millenaar and Irene Raimondi.

Meeting with guardafauna in San Martín to discuss the release — with Hilda Dalmau Ruiz,
Scarlett Eastman, Martin Eayrs, Ñandu Capdevila, Maria Ana Millenaar and Irene
Raimondi.

Last November (2013) I was privileged to be invited to the release of Painamalan adult female condor, back into the wild. The bird had been found in very poor condition, intoxicated and dehydrated, and had undergone three months of rehabilitation in the Condor Unit at the Palermo Zoo in Buenos Aires.

The caravan leaves Junín de los Andes for the heights of the Parajes Costa del Malleo

The caravan leaves Junín de los Andes for the heights of the Parajes Costa del Malleo

The event took place on the Parajes Costa del Malleo (uplands overlooking the Malleo river in Neuquén, Patagonia), inside land set aside for the Mapuche peoples. Representatives of various national, regional and private bodies were present and gave celebratory speeches, most importantly members of the Mapuche community to whom the condor is a sacred animal, messenger and conduit to God.

Argentine and Mapuche representatives spoke of what the release (and the condor) mean and meant to them.

Argentine and Mapuche representatives spoke of what the release (and the condor) mean
and meant to them.

ABOVE: Two cultures – Luis Jacome, from the Condor Conservation Unit in Palermo Zoo in Buenos Aires, and María Eva Linares from the Mapuche community (the word ‘Mapuche’ breaks down to ‘people of the earth’). BELOW: The release, one of many to take place in recent years across the Continent, is recorded for posterity.

An acta was elaborated, and recorded by signatories of the two communities

An acta was elaborated, and recorded by signatories of the two communities

A brief and moving Mapuche ceremony was held before the bird was released – at the request of the lonco this was not filmed or photographed. Then it was time to prepare for the release.

The moment of release

The moment of release

The moment when Painamal took her first steps towards freedom, spread her wings and soared off into the real world were immensely moving for all present. These are big, powerful birds, and it made for a big, powerful moment.

Painamal spreads her wings ….

Painamal spreads her wings ….

This collection of pictures documents the release of the condor back into the wild, one of many similar releases performed recently in various parts of South America where the bird had become extremely rare or extinct, and it is encouraging that many of these these released condors are now breeding.

…. and makes a big stretch while she contemplates — freedom ….

…. and makes a big stretch while she contemplates — freedom ….

I’m reupping this here as I didn’t have a blog last year, and blogs are easier to index than Facebook. You can see a video recording of the event here.

… and off she flies to rejoin her world

… and off she flies to rejoin her world

What happened to Ramon of ‘Ramon Writes’?

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For many years the Buenos Aires Herald ran an irregular column written by Basil Thomson (aka B.T.) called Ramon Writes. Ramon (always without accent) had a less than perfect control of English but was a master of Spanglish. Ramon’s last communication with BT was on July 13 1977. The last readers heard of him he was working aboard a liner, then …

Recently, in a periodic cleanup, the following letter turned at the Herald offices. It seems to have arrived in about 1995 and to have been swept up with some other papers. It does at least explain Ramon’s initial long silence, if not the second one ..

Southampton Docks,

Dear B.T.

How much it makes that I don’t make reach you my notices. The truth it is that I have had the disgrace to be encarcelated during the latest eighteen years. The blame was not mine, but intend to explain was to the divine button. There is not the worse deaf that he who doesn’t want to hear.

You will remind yourself I was working of waiter aboard of a transatlantic and it touched me a companion of the bed of alternating current, Rosanna, also a waiter of table but of the side opposite, and there armed itself a bundle of the great seven.

Of not to be able to go down of the bark in Genoa I had to support that one and what bronc it gave me until that we found ourselves in London and he asked me the chief of machines to go of shopping with him like interpreter. It results that the chief of machines knew not a potato of the English and as I dominate it (after all the years I have of perfecting it) desired that I accompanied him in order that he buys gifts for his woman and creatures.

So that we find ourselves with the chief of machines making buys in the England’s capital. I am diverting myself in great, saluting all the people and practising the English, and everything it is going us well but is always raining and with the cold it makes I become aphonic and can’t more with the interpretation, but the chief of machines he says not to preoccupy myself as in every case I can anote on a sheet or if not point it with the finger.

I am of agree, and there is where begins all the problem. On small sheets I anote the words ‘How much costs this one?’, ‘I carry myself three’, ‘Put me it all in this bag’, etc., thinking so I can demonstrate them to the employed of the stores. And very well walks the system – I deliver the bag and the message and the employed she very well understands me.

But the latest day pass me the following. The chief of machines he charges me of finding a pistol for his older son that lets free sparks and makes the great noise, during he occupies him by passing for the consulate and other diligences of the latest moment. And when I arrive to buy the pistol I think why not buy me one also. I think on menacing Rosanna, the pistol it is very realistic, so that Rosanna leaves to molest me more. So that I buy me another pistol more and I guard me it in the pocket of the jacket where I guard the money and the documents.

But before to return to the bark I have to pass for the house of change for to change me the pounds that stay me. You will remind you that I am aphonic so the bag of shopping I put it on the shelf and I take out the sheet where are anoted the words ‘Please change me these pounds to dollars’ but disgracefully I mistake myself and I deliver to the employes of the house of change the note where says ‘Put me it all in this bag’.

During so much I am trying to take out the wallet where I guard the document of the pocket, but it doesn’t want to go out because of the pistol I bought to shock Rosanna so I am obliged to myself to take out the pistol and then there arms itself a bundle bigger that a house and I find myself on the back and then come the agents of the police and they carry me to the station of the police.

Well, I intend to explain that happened, that I am waiter of table on transatlantic, of Rosanna, of the chief of machine’s creatures, etc., but there isn’t case, and they carry me to the tribunal which calls itself Old Bailey, and the judge he dictates me the sentence that I must pass eighteen years at her majesty’s delight. Of those years better I don’t speak. Like those years my friend I don’t want to pass another.

So it resulted, and recently now I make the preparations to voyage of return to Buenos Aires. You can calculate me to be of return soon, and if for there there is an entry in your diary for a colaborator or traducer you can count with me to be disposable. (It goes without to say that now my domination of the English is complete). And if there doesn’t present itself an entry for me of immediate in your diary, for there you are vinculated with persons or amisties of confidence of whom you can ask an attention.

In all case, I compromise myself to put me in contact or there or from the exterior for a letter as this one. There faults little for that we take a cup with you, and until then receive salutes from your friend,

Ramon