Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 23/1

Day 23: 9 September 2017 – Iguazú

Although technically day 23 of my solo trip, today is also day 1 of my joint trip with my sister Caroline.

Red-legged Seriema at Parque das Aves, Brach;

This (below) is an attempt to reconstruct the second part of the NE Argentina and Paraguay trip for which my sister Caroline joined me. A retrospective joint effort,  put together from notes and photos almost a year later; we were defeated at the time by the lack of Internet connections and to be honest a general heat-induced exhaustion in the evenings. It will be good to have some sort of record, however minimal. And minimal it will be!

Iguazú is close to the triple frontier

So, continuing from day 20 …

Long queues are common when crossing international borders in South America

I had to meet Caroline on the Brazilian side, at Foz airport, so I got up very early as I was unsure of the border queue. And a good job that I did, as it took me about three hours to cross over to Brazil. Got to Foz airport just in time; Caroline’s plane was also on time so it all worked out fine.

The airport on the Brazilian side, at Foz do Iguaçu

As we were in Brazil we went first to the Iguacú falls (there is good access to the falls on both sides of the border), hoping to see the falls from the Brazilian side, but there were so many people everywhere that we decided to leave it for later. Driving back we drove past the Parque das Aves– I had been there many years ago and we decided to give it a go.

Entrance to parque das Aves, Foz do Iguaçu

It had changed a great deal (for the better), and leaving aside the question of birds in captivity it was great to wander through the various canopied areas and see so many birds I am so unlikely to see elsewhere. Or maybe not.

Spoonbill in one of the Park’s large walk through galleries.

The Park has a reptile population too

From Caroline’s notes:“…an extensive collection of native (and a few non-native) species, of note were the Scarlett Ibis – so unbelievably red, the Hyacynth Parakeets, the King Vultures which sat side by side and shook and looked in true Disney style, as though they were waiting to make some aside about the audience and lastly the Cassowary that looked like it had just walked off the set of ‘Dinosaurs’.”

Colourful scarlet ibis – a rather unlikely deep red.

Took a ton of photos there and then we made our way to the bus station to get tickets to Asuncion – we would be travelling from Brazil to Paraguay rather than Argentina. That done, back to Puerto Iguazu (in Argentina) and another 3 hour wait in the immigration queue to get there.

Our home back in Puerto Iguazú

Picked up towels, laundry and beer and went to cabin for a quick shower, and then out again to Color for a fine fish supper. Caroline decided: “… I do not like Catfish – has the taste and texture of sloppy mud”.  

Over a bottle or two of this and that we planned the next few days. 

Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 22

Day 22: 8 September 2017 – Iguazú

I spent the morning with Guy, and we birded the Ruta 101 just outside the town of Puerto Iguazú. This was an excellent place for birding, the best of the places I had visited so far. Lots of birds here – one in particular, the squirrel cuckoo, was very hard for me to photograph, mainly because it was too big for parts of it not to be hidden in the foliage. I did manage in the end. 

Squirrel Cuckoo on Route 101

By coincidence we met Oscar Rodriguez along the way, my guide-to-be in Paraguay next week. He  had brought a small group from Paraguay – clearly the Ruta 101 is a well known place for birding. Good to say hello.

Magpie tanager, on Route 101

With Guy I saw lots of birds, and at lunchtime we visited the Hummingbird gardens in Iguazú. Sadly low light made it hard to take photos, but we did see lots of humming birds and some other small birds. This place is also well worth a visit.

Versicolored Emerald hummingbird, on feeder in Humming Bird garden

Violaceous euphoria, also seen in Humming Bird garden

We had lunch in the bus station, and after lunch Guy took a bus back to San Pedro. I went out to an animal rehabilitation centre just outside the town: Güira Oga. This was a wonderful place too, with many interesting birds and animals that I could see close up, but  once again the light was very bad for photos. I made a mental note to go back one day.

Southern tamandua (Tamandua tetradactyla), also called the collared anteater or lesser anteater, one of many rescue animals in Güira Oga

Had my evening meal by myself (supermarket purchases) in the motel, and planned for tomorrow when Caroline will be arriving. Again the wifi was working well.

A snack supper (the beer is out of sight)

My trip alone will finish here, as next day it will be a new trip with my sister Caroline. However, I shall continue with the same day numbering system.

Summary of lifers seen with Guy
• arañero cara negra (Masked Yellowthroat) Geothlypis aequinoctialis
• arasari fajado (Chestnut-eared Aracari) Pteroglossus castanotis
• boyero cacique (Red-rumped Cacique) Cacicus haemorrhous
• brasito de fuego (Red pileated finch) Coryphospingus cucullatus
• carpintero arco iris (Yellow-fronted Woodpecker) Melanerpes flavifrons
• carpintero oliva manchado (white-spotted woodpecker) Veniliornis spilogaster
• chacurú cara negra (White-eared puffbird) Nystalus chacuru
• chimachima (Yellow-headed Caracara) Milvago chimachima
• choca común (Variable Antshrike) Thamnophilus caerulescens
• frutero corona amarilla (Black-goggled tanager) Trichothraupis melanops
• frutero coronado (ruby-crowned tanager) Tachyphonus coronatus
• frutero overo (magpie tanager) Cissopis leverianus
• golondrina ala blanca (White-winged Swallow) Tachycineta albiventer
• golndrina doméstica (Grey-breasted Martin) Progne chalybea
• loro maitaca (Scaly-headed Parrot) Pionus maximiliani 
• mielero (Bananaquit) Coereba flaveola
• mosqueta enana&nbsp (Eared pygmy tyrant) Myiornis auricularis
• mosqueta pico curvo (Rough-legged Tyrannulet) Phyllomyias burmeisteri
• pepitero verdoso (Green-winged Saltator) Saltator similis
• picaflor corona violacea (violet-capped woodnymph) Thalurania glaucopis
• picaflor esmeralda (Versicolored Emerald) Amazilia versicolor
• picaflor negro (Black Jacobin) Florisuga fusca
• saracura (Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail) Aramides saracura
• surucua amarillo (Black-throated Trogon) Trogon rufus
• surucua común (Surucua trogon) Trogon surrucura
• tangará amarillo (Violaceous Euphonia) Euphonia violacea
• tarefero (olivaceous woodcreeper) Sittasomus griseicapillus
• tersina (Swallow Tanager) Tersina viridis
• tijereta (Fork-tailed Flycatcher) Tyrannus savana
• tingazú (Squirrel Cuckoo) Piaya cayana
• torcacita colorada (Ruddy Ground Dove) Columbina talpacoti
• trepador oscuro (Planalto woodcreeper) Dendrocolaptes platyrostris
• tucán Grande(toco Toucan) Ramphastos toco
• tucan pico verde (Sulfur-breasted toucan) Ramphastos sulfuratus
• urraca común (Plush-crested Jay) Cyanocorax chrysops
• vencejo de cascada (Great dusky swift) Cypseloides senex
• viudita enmascarada (Masked Water-Tyrant) Fluvicola nengeta
• yetapa grande (Streamer-tailed tyrant) Gubernetes yetapa
• yetapa negra (Long-tailed tyrant) Colonia colonus
• zorzal sabiá (Pale-breasted Thrush) Turdus leucomelas

Trip blog continues here.

Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 21

Day 21: 7 September 2017

Iguazú Falls – unbelievable, even when you see them.

Met Guy early in the morning, and we started by going out to the Iguazu falls area, where there are a number of trails that can be walked. Some are better than others for birding.

Black-throated Trogon (Trogon rufus)

We birded the Macuco trail, where we saw many birds, including the Black-throated and Surucua Trogons.

Surucua trogon (Trogon surrucura)

 We then walked along the some of trails around the falls on the Argentine side, specifically the Devil’s Throat and Lower Trail. We didn’t fail to see the obligatory Guinness Toucan in the tree tops.

First sighting of a Toco Toucan (Ramphastos toco)

We also saw the great dusky swifts, not so many of them, but like all insect hunters their flightpath made them too hard to photograph today. Maybe later. 

No specialist, me, but I think this is a William’s South American side-necked or toad-necked turtle (Phrynops williamsi)

From the walkways over the falls we saw turtles, and at the refreshment stops lost of coatis.

Coatimundi (Nasua nasua ), member of the racoon family. Scavengers, and a bit of a pest at Iguazú.

A fairly relaxed if hot day, with quite a lot of walking, and I had an early evening meal in town with Guy and went back to my motel.

Restaurante La Rueda 75, Puerto Iguazú

Back in the motel was beer and a wifi connection, all I needed.

Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 20

Day 20: 6 September 2017: SS de la Selva – Cataratas de Iguazú

Great Kiskadee, feathering his nest

Spent a lazy morning at the lodge in San Sebastian de la Selva, birding around the lodge and a couple of short trails.

Pale-breasted thrush

Ruddy Ground Dove

After a leisurely lunch we made our way up to Iguazú, a couple of hours drive. I was impressed to see that the highways authorities had included eco-bridges for the wildlife to cross safely.

Wildlife corridors are important, and it’s good to see them on highways in Misiones

We stopped a few times on the road to take photos, one of which was an Amazon lava lizard (Tropidurus torquatus),  not to be confused with the black and white tegus (Tupinambis merianae) we had seen in SS de la Selva.

Amazon lava lizard (Tropidurus torquatus)

Some of the trees here are seriously thorny.

In Misiones I checked into a motel while Guy stayed with friends. I shall be here for several nights, until my sister Caroline arrives for the Paraguay part of the trip.

My cabin at Raices Pampeanas, a motel about a mile from Iguazú centre.  I shall be staying here for a few nights.

In the evening Guy and I had a meal together and planned tomorrow’s birding.

 

Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 19

5 September 2017: San Sebastian de la Selva lodge

Yellow-fronted Woodpecker (Melanerpes flavifrons)

Slept really well, and up for an early breakfast before hitting the trails by about 07.15. Did a mix of forest and more open trails and covered a fair distance before coming back to the lodge for a 12.00 lunch.

Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail (Aramides saracura)

Lunch was a leisurely affair (feijoada with rice and cassava root) and I decided today to sit out the early afternoon sun so rested up till about 16.00 and did some leisurely ambling on new trails near the lodge. 

Termite nest in tree

Got back to the lodge around 18.00 to find that miraculously there was a wifi connection (first time for several days) so could speak to F. Spent the rest of the evening chatting, catching up with photos, and generally winding down.

Oven bird in nest-building mode

Just a few more more of today’s birds below.

Masked Water-Tyrant (Fluvicola nengeta)

Swallow Tanager (Tersina viridis)

Yellow-headed Caracara (Milvago chimachima)

Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 18

4 September 2017: Karadya BioReserve – San Sebastian de la Selva lodge

Spent the morning in and around the balcony and observation tower at Karadya before an early lunch and a move up the road of a kilometre or so to another lodge. Saw lots of lIfers: far too many to detail here.

Violet-capped woodnymph (Thalurania glaucopis)

A humming bird that I saw – the violet- capped wood nymph – was a first for me; a beautiful little bird darting round the base of the Karadya viewing balcony.

White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus)

And from up on the balcony at Karadya I had a splendid view of some higher canopy birds such as the eared pygmy tyrant, not easily seen from ground level.

Eared pygmy tyrant (Myiornis auricularis), a top canopy bird

One on my wish list was the long-tailed tyrant – the third of the three yetapas I had hoped to see. 

Long-tailed tyrant (Colonia colonus)

We got to the new lodge at San Sebastian de la Selva about midday. Lovely place, with open park and a lawn manicured (or denticured) by the capybara that come in in the evening. Superb organic lawnmowers.

Capybara in the lake by the lodge

Iguana also ramble the grounds freely.

What the locals call ‘iguana’ – actually a black and white tegu (Tupinambis merianae)

There are several trails on the site, some forest, some more open grassland, with the sound of birds everywhere but not easy to see them. In particular, the forest is very dense and although you can sometimes make out a black or brown shape rustling deep in the impenetrable undergrowth it is very hard to see a complete bird, let alone photograph one.

White-spotted woodpecker (Veniliornis spilogaster)

That said, the trails were great to walk down, so far from the civilisation that I usually live in, and I felt very privileged to share this wonderful place with its inhabitants. 

Colourful Scaly-headed Parrots (Pionus maximiliani) were screeching all around the lodge.

Another great (both huge and satisfying) supper, and as the evening drew on it got quite chilly – a welcome change from the hot afternoon sun, which I have been finding somewhat debilitating. I walked back to my cabin, some 200 metres from the dining area, through an ocean of barking and shuffling capybaras – a very unusual yet strangely satisfying experience.

Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 17

3 September 2017: San Pedro to the Karadya BioReserve

Got myself on time to Guy’s House for 06.30 and we drove in a rented 4×4 to the Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero, not far from San Pedro, an old araucaria forest that is almost untouched and the last of its kind anywhere. We followed a circular trail and saw and heard many birds, but most of these were hard to see and harder still to photograph as the trail was mostly shaded and the birds tended to keep to the shadows.

Red-rumped cacique (Cacicus haemorrhous) in Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero.

We saw several species of parrots, and a small flock of Green-billed Toucans that flew out into the light – also two capuchin monkeys at distance. At the entrance to the park was a large flock of Red-rumped caciques (Cacicus haemorrhous) that also kept mainly to the shadows but did occasionally venture out into the sunlight. Also a Sulfur-breasted toucan in the tree tops. A very enjoyable walk through traditional selva, and the limited photographic opportunities were fully mitigated by the pleasure and privilege of being in such a wonderful place.

Sulfur-breasted toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus)

Back to Guy’s for a tasty lunch and then on to the Karadya BioReserve, where we checked in to our cabin and then went to a forest balcony and feeding station for a welcome beer as the evening drew on. We’ll go back there in the morning – it promises to be a good place for photos, and to house a fair number of species.

Balcony at Karadya Birding Lodge and Reserve

Then back to the main lodge for a filling supper, and an early night for me as I am exhausted after today’s early start.

Trip through Northern Argentina and Paraguay – Day 16

This blog is continued from day 13 – see link here

2 September 2017: Posadas to San Pedro

If you are wondering what happened to days 14 and 15, these were spent at an English Teacher’s conference in Posadas, where I gave a workshop, details not germane to this blog. So we resume on Day 16. Up early to sort out problems with double payment taken for car rental (which was potentially very expensive) and a misunderstanding over a UK client’s deadline (both frustrating and time-consuming) and back on the road by lunchtime.

Reducción de Santa Ana, one of the Jesuit missions in Argentina

Uneventful 300 km up to San Pedro, stopping twice: once to visit the Santa Ana Jesuit Mission and once for lunch (chef’s choice of boiled meat and boiled cassava). No birding, just foot to floor.

Boiled meat and manioc – tastier than it looks!

Got to cabin in San Pedro (Cabañas Suizas) by 18.00 for a quick and welcome shower (pretty hot in Misiones, especially inside a moving steel box) and then to Guy Cox’s house for a splendid home-cooked supper. Guy helped with a few IDs and we talked a little about tomorrow: an early start, and my introduction to birding in the selva.

We arranged to set off tomorrow at 06.30, so an early night was in order.

 

 

Birding trip to Dorset and Somerset, 18-20 April, 2018

We saw a number of kestrels, buzzards and marsh harriers during our stay

In April 2018 I made a birding trip to the south coast with friends Sarah, Den and Mags. 

My three companions, genning up on recent sightings.

Our first stop was RSPB Arne, near Wareham in Dorset. This is a mixed habitat site with beautiful walks; heath, forest and pasture. The weather was gorgeous and we stayed there about five hours.

RSPB Arne, on arrival

Our main aim was to see the Dartford Warbler. Arne is one of the few sites with a high chance of seeing this beautiful red-eyed bird, which we were lucky enough to find displaying nicely although not as close as we might have liked.

Dartford warbler

Spring birds were arriving; we heard willow warblers, chiffchaffs and blackcaps amongst others. 

Chiffchaff (I think), singing for us at Arne.

Another songster, the wren was in fine voice

We were very impressed by RSPB Arne. We saw a number of reptiles basking in the sun; all six UK species can be found here. And the walks were varied and most enjoyable. A place to return to.

Observation seat at Arne: not for the faint-hearted!

From Arne we drove to the Portland Bird Observatory, an old lighthouse where we spent the night.

The entrance to Portland Bird Observatory

The observatory is a research centre, with permanent and volunteer staff. Every morning the birds trapped in mist nets are observed and ringed if not already done. There is accommodation for a number of guests in the lighthouse and annexes; not five star but not too spartan either. It also has an excellent library and shop. 

Redpoll, taken from the mist nets …

Every morning the residents studied the sea, which can be seen from the lighthouse balcony, for interesting sightings. There are extensive gardens with varied vegetation – in these are a dozen or so mist nets, which generally turn up birds of interest, obviously varying at different times of the year.

.. and a redstart, being examined by observatory staff

The observatory was fairly full of experienced, knowledgeable and friendly birders. There are cooking facilities, and life was very communal; more like a hostel than anything else. A very comfortable place to be for a birder.

A rather concerned wood pigeon studies a possible nest

A linnet just about to fly off ..

The fields around the lighthouse were also productive for birds. A Eurasian hoopoe had been seen the day we arrived, but had sadly moved on. But we did see quite a few birds, including a lovely little owl who lives with his family in a rock crevice in a nearby abandoned quarry.

The hoopoe had moved on, but this kestrel was very interested in the nearby ploughed fields

This little owl had taken up residence in an old quarry

On our second day we drove to Monkey World, an hour or so away. It was hard to get clear photos of the apes and monkeys because of the bars on the enclosures, but one Orang Utan had climbed high enough to be visible from the pathways.

Gordon the Orang Utan, something of a TV celebrity

Around some of the enclosures were Sika deer; I was told that they were there before work started on Monkey World.

There were Sika deer around one of the Chimps’ enclosures

Monkey World was started up by Jim Cronin in 1987. Jim has now died, and there is a monument to him in the reserve.

Monkey World founder Jim Cronin, with tank hating Charlie

Back to the Portland Observatory for an evening meal and some liquid refreshment. The following morning we set off early for Manchester, but stopped at RSPB Ham Wall on the way back.

Grey Heron on one of the ditches at Ham Wall

RSPB Ham Wall is a large site with lots of water birds. Hard to find, but the sat nav got us there. They claimed to have 44 bitterns on site the day we were there; we heard several booming and all four of us, independently, saw one flying. Sadly no photos though.

Lots of buzzards around in Haw Wall

Plenty of warblers on the reed beds, including some very noisy Cettis. Personally, I think Cettis are invisible; anyway I didn’t see any myself, but one of our party says she did. There were certainly plenty of spring woodland birds arriving and singing.

A recently arrived [male] blackcap at Ham Wall

And always in the background the mysterious Glastonbury Tor …

The tower of C14th St Michaels church on Glastonbury Tor.

Right next to RSPB Ham Wall is the Shapwick Heath Reserve. We didn’t have time to explore the site much but I did walk around a delightful adventure trail, a circuit of a mile or so through forest and marshland surfaced with recycled plastic planks. Highly recommended.

And then back to Manchester. The southwest of England is very definitely an ace place for birding and wildlife in general, and we have already decided to go back next year. Our plan is to stay again in the observatory and make day trips to other reserves in the general area. Watch this space.

Huerque Mapu

 

Huerque Mapu (1972/3)

I first arrived in Argentina in early 1975, at a time now crystallised on celluloid by Argentina’s post-Junta cinema but then very real; a time of the AAA, the ERP, the Montoneros. A country led indeterminately either by a nightclub dancer President or her warlock, de facto prime minister: a man who determined national policy through astrological divination. The nightclub dancer shared her Rasputin’s interest in the occult.

I have memories of green Ford Falcons driven manically on and off pavements, both cars and drivers quite bereft of identification, front seat passengers leaning out of the windows with Ithakas, spraying pavements, shopfronts and the occasional passer-by with bullets. I have memories of people I met at parties that I never met again. Couldn’t meet again. Memories of a honeymoon in the Cordoba Hills punctuated by the sound of not-so-distant gunfire. I remember we never exchanged phone numbers, because they could so easily bring an Ithaca to the front door. I could go on – you get the picture.

I was living in Palermo, in a small bedsit with a girl I had met in Barcelona. I had arrived with a backpack and had no music of my own, but she had a small collection. I remember some of the albums: Cat Stevens, Caetano Veloso, that sort of stuff. And this album: the eponymous Huerque Mapu, their first, released in 1972 or 73. Neither I nor the girl I lived with have a copy any longer, and they are probably like gold dust but the tracks are still available (see below).

‘Huerque Mapu’ was the name of the band and the album. The words are from Mapungdun, a language of the Mapuche peoples, and mean ‘messengers of the earth’. The album is political, and its artists had wisely fled the country by the time I arrived in Buenos Aires. One track has stayed with me and is still a recurring earworm that pops up in the strangest places. That track is the hauntingly sad Vamos Mujer. Outside the album it is the closing piece of the Santa María de Iquique, cantata popular, a classical/folk fusion performance that tells of a 1907 industrial dispute that ended with the massacre of hundreds of nitrate miners in the northern Chilean city of Iquique.

As massacres go, and Latin America has had its fair (or unfair) share, it was a bad one. The miners had a more than just cause, one still unanswered in the 1950s when Ernesto (Che) Guevara and Alberto Granado passed through the region. I was not so conscious politically in those hazy, smoke-filled days but this one song had a pathos, a sadness,  a resignedness that would bring on tears. This is not to denigrate the other tracks on the album; they are all good, but this one song really did (and does) affect me.

So, for me this album is another powerful blast from the past; a memory of my first arrival in  Buenos Aires. It was a different time, I was a different person, but the album brings it all back together.

The track ‘Vamos Mujer’ and in fact the whole album can be downloaded from https://archive.org/details/perrerachmhm1972.

Track listing

El cuento
La Fiesta de San Benito
Sacha Shulko
Vamos mujer
Carta del soldado
Trelew
El Canelazo
Ojito de agua
Coplas del Valle Calchaqui
Run-Run se fue pa’l norte